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Board index » All Posts (jwogec)




Re: 1929 senior car muffler brackets
#91
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John Wogec
Hi David,

Thanks very much for replying. Your photos, along with a review of page 80 of the parts list show the same configuration as your photos reflect, part #163235 - muffler with two studs exiting in the front, and part #163226 - rear muffler bracket. Perhaps grandpa replaced the muffler at some point with an aftermarket part that didn't have the studs, so he added the bracket. He did all sorts of things like that on this car. One question: what goes in that third hole on my frame...any ideas?

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Posted on: 2015/2/11 19:39
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1929 senior car muffler brackets
#92
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John Wogec
Hello everybody,

I have a sixth series senior car (Seven Passenger Sedan, 145 inch wheelbase). I am trying to do an authentic restoration. Fortunately I have a very complete car to start with. Unfortunately, my grandfather who bought the car in 1930 was a blacksmith by training, so he didn't hesitate to "make" parts that he thought were better suited to the job than those designed by the Packard brothers.

Well, at some point Grandpa turned his attention to the muffler brackets (both front and rear) that attach to the frame cross members. My rear bracket is long gone, and the front mount was clearly manufactured by Grandpa. I suspect this because the three factory cut holes in the front cross member that were used for the bracket are empty, and grandpa cut a hole about two inches above the three aforementioned holes where he installed his "new and improved" version of the bracket.

Would anyone who has what appears to be original muffler hardware be willing to post photos of the front and rear muffler brackets? I have no idea what they look like and the parts manual does not have pictures of them. Much thanks in advance.

John Wogec

Posted on: 2015/2/11 15:18
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Re: 1929 Packard Lube issue
#93
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John Wogec
Me again,

Just to let you know...the Bijur Company is still in business and will email anyone the same drawing that Owen_Dyneto displayed for each year of car. They are very pleasant people...I think they get a kick out of the fact that people are still using technology they developed so many years ago. The value of the drawing is that it specifies the size of oiler tip intended for each location on the car.

Posted on: 2015/2/11 15:01
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Re: 1929 Packard Lube issue
#94
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John Wogec
Hi everyone,

Bruce Blevins sells aftermarket Bijur plugs for several years, including 1929. I have my system completely off the car and several of the plugs are clogged. The tip looks it was actually some sort of felt..or something. The problem is that if you go jamming something up there to remove the gunk, you will invariably change the diameter of the tip and change the amount of oil that is deliverd by that tip, thus defeating the intent of delivering different amounts of oil to each location on the car. Not to emntion that you have to somehow replace the filter material.

I recently asked Bruce if there was any way to disassemble those plugs and clean the tip and he said...not that he was aware of. I am a restoration neophyte, but this is one of those things that I am just gonna pony up and pay to replace....all of them, and be thankful that there is someone out there like Bruce who is creating them as an aftermarket item.

Please enlighten me if I am missing something obvious about how to remediate this problem. again, I am a neophyte at this whole world of restoration.

John Wogec

Posted on: 2015/2/11 14:51
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Re: Help! leaf spring orientation 1928
#95
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John Wogec
Tom Wilcox did a great blog called Packard Paddock when he restored his 1930 sedan. You should google it. He had the same problem...only he got all the way through re-assembly before he figured it out. Pretty funny, but he is very familiar with this process. I have looked at his blog many times while working on my '29 Sedan.

Posted on: 2015/2/2 12:19
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Re: Loose rivets
#96
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John Wogec
Sounds like we have both been battling some of the same demons. I responded to your post about spring shackle bushings last week. I recently removed a rear engine mount from my 1929 Seven Passenger Sedan...double rounded head rivets and I think it is a 3/16 inch rivet. Grainger has them cheap. I made a bucking bar with a dimpled end out of a piece of 4140 steel...Just like everybody says...get the correct size rivet so it fits the hole very close, get it cherry red (I used oxy-acetylene which worked great) and smack it real good once to expand it snug in the hole, then fight with it the rest of the afternoon to get it to look right. If you hit it too many times you will actually dimple the steel around the rivet, so definitely practice on some blanks first. If you do dimple the steel you can go back afterwards and fill the depression with weld. I'm not saying I had to do that though...bottom line is it looks like the original after I spent a day of making up new cuss words.

Posted on: 2015/1/6 13:09
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Re: Spring bushing replacer tool
#97
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John Wogec
Hello,

I am facing the same dilemma. I just purchased a pristine set of pins and bushings for my 1929 Seven Passenger Sedan from Bruce Blevins. By the way, I highly recommend Bruce's work. He claims to have a set of factory blueprints from which he makes his replacements and my untrained eye would believe him. His pins appear identical to the originals in every way.

I recall seeing the device you refer to, perhaps in the Parts catalog, and the drawing appears to be nothing more than a glorified C-clamp. I have only extracted one of my existing bushings, but the threaded rod and closely ground heavy washer strategy removed it with minor effort. I notice I deformed the edge of the bushing a little in removing it. Gentle heating may expand the metal a little, so I will probably experiment with that when I muster the courage to install the new bushings. I will also consult my trusted machinist about possibly grinding a precision brass adaptor to place against the new bushings before seating them. One friend, who is also a machinist stated the trick in reinserting bushings is to get them started straight, and as always, patience.

Anyone brave enough to answer this related question would be much appreciated...I intend to have my frame powder coated...should I press in the new bushings before or after the powder coating.

Posted on: 2014/12/30 12:16
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Re: Brass worth more than gold!
#98
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John Wogec
...all of a sudden I don't feel quite so foolish for the purchases I have made over the years in support of my restoration efforts.

Posted on: 2014/10/28 14:35
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Vanity case pencil
#99
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John Wogec
Hi everyone,

Might anyone have an idea of the type of mechanical pencil that was included in the vanity case for the rear compartment of the late 1920's closed cars. I am looking for a brand, or any information anyone may have.

Posted on: 2014/4/3 15:48
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Re: Vibration Damper Removal - 1928 5-26
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John Wogec
Not a problem. Here is what the list calls out for the 443: two "Motor vibration damper flywheel", part numbers 147208 (second picture from right in bottom row), one "Motor vibration damper flywheel facing", part number 146998 (picture directly above the flywheel), six springs (small spring at top of picture),part number 148434, one Motor vibration damper hub (part number 158112) (second picture from left in middle row)and a key for the hub. Finally, it calls out a "Motor vibration damper hub sleeve" part number 158782 (right upper picture)

So, if you believe the Parts list for the 443 model, it is actually two flywheels with springs inside, a facing plate on the front, all mounted on a hub with a sleeve around it and a key that prevents it from slipping on the shaft.

I have a 1929 385 h.p. and I honestly havent looked at it that closely. It is covered with rust and I am still many moons from disassembling my engine, but to the best of my recollection, I don't remember it being composed of that many parts, but I would agree, there is definitely a groove between the two flywheels that may tease apart with some coaxing. The position of my engine presents with the exact problems cited by the other commenters. Unless that thing comes apart and the two pieces can be slid off the shaft in sequence, that riveted frame cross member is gonna require that you lift the engine. Please let me know what you figure out...I will be in the same predicament in the coming months.

Posted on: 2014/3/27 16:37
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