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Forum Index


Board index » All Posts (BillButterworth)




Re: Power adaptor
#11
Home away from home
Home away from home

Bill Butterworth
Thanks to everyone for the information. Will follow up with vendors to see which works out best.
Bill

Posted on: 2015/6/14 11:25
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Power adaptor
#12
Home away from home
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Bill Butterworth
Been trying to find source for an adaptor to plug into the 6 volt cigar lighter in my 1940 Packard to power an iPhone. Is such a thing even available?

Posted on: 2015/6/11 11:06
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Re: Current/continuity question
#13
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Bill Butterworth
Pat, thanks for the feed back. Your info regarding the grounding of the outputs on the ignition switch with the key in the OFF position was something I didn't know. Will retest and see if I can make sense of continuity readings. I understand the dimmer to be a single throw double pole switch, ie either the high beam or low beam terminal is hot when ever the light switch is all the way out. In my car, power only goes to the parking and dash lights when the main switch is half way out. As the dimmer switch functions properly my continuity reading will, I guess, just remain a mystery to me.
Thanks, Bill

Posted on: 2014/11/26 9:46
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Current/continuity question
#14
Home away from home
Home away from home

Bill Butterworth
Currently replacing old wiring under the dash of my 1940 super 8. Rewired both the dimmer and ignition switches. Both worked properly before and after rewiring. When testing both switches after removing old and before installing new wire continuity readings didn't make sense to me! The Ignition switch with key in the OFF position the multimeter showed zero resistance between the input and output wiring lugs.Turning the key to the ON position also showed,, as expected, zero resistance. How can a switch test closed and not continuously be passing current? The dimmer switch would only show continuity between the power input and the lug that didn't have the hi beem wire attached to it. After pressing dimmer switch couldn't get continuity between any of the 3 wire lugs? Does this make sense to any one?

Posted on: 2014/11/23 21:53
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Re: 1940 180 fog lights
#15
Home away from home
Home away from home

Bill Butterworth
Thanks, no, I don't know the owner of the pictured club sedan but would like to email him. I have been on quite a journey in bringing mine back to road worthiness.

Posted on: 2014/11/20 12:57
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Re: 1940 180 fog lights
#16
Home away from home
Home away from home

Bill Butterworth
Actually, West, I agree with you on the appearance issue. This is the reason if I decide to do this want to be sure it's absolutly correct. What started this is my speedo locked up so had to pull the dash. So as long as the dash is out decided to rewire under the dash and thought I would at least dead end the fog and back up light wiring. Also replacing rear loom which appears to be original as I'm installing directionals. Though not original, feel they are necessayr for night driving. With the club sedan the rear visibility is very poor. If your ihterested you can see my Packard in the club registry it looks just like your dad's. Mine is wilshire green your dad's however appears to be black? Trying to find the original thin green and brown stripe seat upholstery. Tried all the well known places with no luck. Would you happen know of a source?

Posted on: 2014/11/19 20:20
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1940 180 fog lights
#17
Home away from home
Home away from home

Bill Butterworth
Considering installing fog lights and a back up light. Does any one have a pictures or a reference source for these? I believe Trippe made fog lights that year, did Packard make their own?
Thanks

Posted on: 2014/11/18 23:11
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Re: Proper amp gauge wiring
#18
Home away from home
Home away from home

Bill Butterworth
Fred, found some interesting stuff but not much on the ammeter.

Posted on: 2014/11/11 23:33
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Re: Proper amp gauge wiring
#19
Home away from home
Home away from home

Bill Butterworth
Hi Tim
Thanks for the feed back. First of all your knowledge on this subject far exceeds mine, so please bare with me. Have tested all around the distributor and breaker plate to be sure of good ground as well to insure the was no leakage from the primary feed to ground. In the past to test a condenser I charged it with ohm setting on multimeter for about 10 seconds then set meter to a voltage to see if any stored voltage discharged. I realize this is a poor test but at least I can see if some voltage is getting stored. Will look into a better multimeter with capacitance capabilities. Have inductance clamp meter but thought it was only good for AC. Much more proficient at house wiring than car wiring. Will look into that as well. The ammeter does show consistent charging,seeming too much at times, so think the generator is OK. Will test again all connections when the dash and rear loom rewiring is complete. Are you saying as long as the regulator feed and the battery feed wires are on the opposite side of the ammeter and the needle moves to the charging side during acceleration that's about all these ammeters are good for?

Posted on: 2014/11/10 21:56
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Proper amp gauge wiring
#20
Home away from home
Home away from home

Bill Butterworth
What is the correct side of the amp meter to attach the regulator feed, battery feed, and load wires. Mine is not wired as Packard and others show in their wiring diagrams. But the Packard wiring diagrams have not always been correct either. They show battery feed to discharge side and regulator feed along with load feeds to charging side of meter. Mine is wired with regulator feed and main light switch on discharge side and battery feed and radio on charging side? Amp meter seems to indicate properly except it always shows charging even with the engine running and s fully charged battery and the lights off. Could this explain the fluctuating running voltage readings and the continual failure of ignition condensers. The latter I believe would have to be through the overdrive relay which is connected to the primary distributor feed terminal.

Posted on: 2014/11/10 15:56
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