Thanks, will up date tomorrow.
Bill

Battery is low due to all cranking so voltage is down to 6.0. Currently charging with pulse type charger as I have an Optima battery. Coil + to ground is 6.0volts and ohms across primary coil is 1.5, so, think coil is OK. Cranking drops coil voltage to fluctuate between 4.2 and 4.6! New Champion plugs and new carbon fiber wires. Couldn't find any solid wires in town and was told by many the 7mm carbon wires are OK. When points are closed, volts is 1.2 volts or so? One point is that I had the distributor rebuilt and was told the ground wire from the plate to the point base was unnecessary and was not reinstalled, maybe I should reinstall?

Today went after electrical side to try and find cause of no start. Removed distributor, did ohm test to insure positive from coil was not grounding to base. The only time it did was, as expected, when points closed. Hot wired new modern 6 volt coil. Check all plugs for spark, good,so assume cap and rotor are good? Then checked KV reading at each plug and on coil wire. This to me at lest, seems very strange. The plug wire readings ranged from 1.9 to 11.3 KV? (New plug wires and plugs) The coil wire both modern and new old stock had about the same spread of 4.2 to 20KV, this can't be right. Checked my 1985 Bronco and the plug wires ranged from 20-30KV. I know the coil is 12volts but wanted to be sure meter was working properly. Any ideas on what's going on?

Thanks for all the ideas, will check out each of the suggestions and advise. Did rebuild oil pump and turned engine when the pump was still out. Did re-aline pump-distributor drive close to original position. To be sure not out 180 on exhaust stroke put finger over spark plug hole and cranked engine until blast of air came out, this I assume, is the compression stroke (not the exhaust stroke) and when the rotor should be on #1 terminal not #5. If I move spark plug wires even one position will not be able to aline rotor with #! terminal. Confirmed this by comparing TDC on vibration damper with rotor alinement to #1 terminal. Does this sound correct?

Have checked every thing I can think of. Engine turns over and try's to start for a few seconds (very rough) but dies. New coil, distributor rebuilt and checked out on distributor machine, new plug wires and plugs. Carb rebuilt and floats set properly. Auto choke and idle jets set to specification. Fuel pump good. Timing set at 2-4 degrees BTDC on compression stroke. Tried starting fluid, no luck. Plugs are clean and dry but lots of gas in bottom of intake manifold as confirmed by removing drain plug. Heat riser valve is free. Any thoughts would be great.
Thanks,
Bill

Thanks to both "Forum Ambassador's", this is exactly the information I needed.

Want to do some rewiring but can't determine various wire gauges. Gauges appear to be from #10 -#16 (excluding battery cables of course). Unable to find conversion chart to relate wire diameters to gauges. Anyone have a source for this chart? Thanks

Thanks, yes, will have to removed the heater core to get at the switch. Ron Carpenter said the switch will fit through the hole in the dash.

Thanks for the information will follow through. I assume the switch fits through the firewall opening? Did you have to remove the heater to get at the back of the switch for removal?

Have been receiving very helpful responses regarding ignition coil problems with the subject Packard. Have actually been able to repair the coil, I think? One problem was the brass ground post for the wire to the distributor had been broken off and was soldered and epoxied back on. This didn't last and broke off again. Cleaned up post base and soldered primary coil wire to inside of the hollow post base for secure electrical connection. Filed down top of solder so it was flat and would butt up with bottom of the top half of the broken post. Was able to thread broken post base all the way to its base which allowed 2 full turns of a 10/32 coupling nut. Then turned in the top piece of the broken post till it bottomed out on the solder with enough thread left for the ground wire and nut. As Dave mentioned, I should look at the hot wire to the ignition switch, and as he suspected the wire looks bad. All the insulation to just were it enters the metal cable is gone and just taped over. Then the insulation as the wire inters the cable looks dried out. So the wire has to come out. Any advise on how to get the switch out of the dash and take the switch apart to get at the other end of the bad wire? The metal cable appears to be crimped right into the switch, yikes. Again, thanks of all the help.