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Board index » All Posts (DavidM)




Re: Drums
#31
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DavidM
They look like late 1920's to early 1930's but there were different diameters and widths depending on the model

Posted on: 2022/12/26 16:08
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Re: Head nut/stud torque?
#32
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DavidM
I had the same problem some years ago. I had refitted the head to my 1929 Packard with a new gasket (not from Olsens)after an engine rebuild that included machining the head and top of block. It leaked water out the side of the head and into the cylinders. I had tensioned the head down so I repeated that a few times but it continued to leak badly.
I removed the new gasket (that looked fine on inspection) and refitted the old gasket just to check that it was the new gasket causing the problem and it sealed perfectly. I drove the car on a number of tours with the old gasket and it is still there today.

Posted on: 2022/11/26 1:48
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Re: Tom Malas "1931 833 Restoration "
#33
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DavidM
It's connected to your choke so that when the engine is cold and running on choke it allows a small quantity of oil to go to small holes in the cylinders (which are very likely blocked).
Its a PITA, oil leaks out the small gland on the shaft. Repacking it occasionally helps. Its not essential if you are concerned, add upper cylinder lubricant to the fuel. All of my cars were RHD so the steering column makes that thing very hard to access

Posted on: 2022/9/7 21:37
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Re: 1929 Battery Box Tube Nuts
#34
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DavidM
Merritt has them. Part # 12
BCS101, battery box cover screws

Posted on: 2022/7/10 17:31
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Re: 1929 Packard Carburetor
#35
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DavidM
The article you probably recall is in the owner's handbook, attached are the relevant pages. There is a copy of this very useful handbook for sale on ebay now, search on "1929 Packard owners Manual"

Attach file:



jpg  img-220703085001-001.jpg (276.36 KB)
579_62c217ea03bfc.jpg 1367X1920 px

Posted on: 2022/7/3 17:35
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Re: Need 526 oil pressure/rpm values....
#36
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DavidM
The engine speed at 25 MPH would be around 1200 RPM depending on the final drive ratio and wheel size, there are plenty of online sites that have the formula.
The oil pressure will not continue to rise in proportion to engine RPM because there is a pressure relief valve on the pump, If it's set to open at say 25 PSI then it will not rise above that at higher RPM.

Posted on: 2022/6/18 17:15
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Re: QUESTION STARTER SWITCH AND FLOORING
#37
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DavidM
If it's the same as the 1922 126/133 models there is a vertical control rod that must be disconnected and the electrical cables connected to the starter switch must also be removed before the floor will come out. It an real PITA job!

Posted on: 2022/4/6 3:13
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Re: 1929 dash mounted coil
#38
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DavidM
I did the same, an inexpensive new coil (plus a spare to carry) and an ignition switch bought from a boat shop. Apart from the slightly different bezel holding the switch, the difference was barely noticeable. The new coil has a slightly smaller diameter compared to the original so a sleeve around it allowed it to be clamped into the holder behind the dash.

Posted on: 2022/2/3 16:30
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Re: 1929 dash mounted coil
#39
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DavidM

Posted on: 2022/2/3 2:15
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Re: Anybody got the end all cure for vapor locking?
#40
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DavidM
The car in question (1929 Packard) has a vented float bowl so boiling fuel in the carburetor may not pressurize the bowl. The vent is a small hole in a screwed cap, I removed the cap on my cars providing a bigger vent opening, that made no difference
In my opinion the problem is simply that the fuel drawn into the engine is a mixture of liquid and vapor. The vapor has negligible energy so the car starts "bucking", as the vapor part starves the engine of fuel. Pulling out the choke or full throttle can provide slight improvement but once it starts, stopping and cooling the vacuum tank and carburetor with a wet rag will provide temporary relief.
The problem is as simple as that, the cure however is far from simple, how to keep the fuel cool.
It's worth adding that on later model cars vapor lock might be due to the fuel pump not delivering vaporized fuel, pumps deliver liquid not vapor. On cars with a vacuum tank, its not a pump, its simply a tank under negative pressure (when the float drops) and as such will suck liquid or vapor if required.
A final comment despite this being a real PITA when it happens, sometimes a year or two will pass without a vapor lock incident occurring leading to the belief that the latest "fix" has somehow been the cure, then when conditions are "right" it happens again

Posted on: 2022/1/11 16:42
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