Jim,
I can confirm that the inside of the firewall on the 1929 Standard Eight cars is covered with a coarse carpet like material with brass eyelets for the various openings and press stud attachment clips, I have the remnants of an original one. I can't comment on the Custom Eight cars but hopefully this will prompt someone to respond. Also I seem to recall being told many years ago that someone in US was reproducing these covers. Again someone may have better information.

The hood latches are riveted to the frame covers only.
They are not attached to the frame.
After restoring my car I found that the hood latch springs were too weak allowing the hood latches to open while driving so I had to remove the frame covers to get them off. When I put it back together I soldered brass nuts to the underside of the frame covers (instead of using rivets) and attached the latches with round head nickel plated screws so they can be removed without having to remove the frame covers. Removal of the frame covers is a tedious job due to the location of some of the nuts on the underside of the frame.

Someone is or was making reproduction coil/ignition switch units that clamp into the circular clamp under the dash. They were coming up on e bay for a while although I have not seen them recently.
What I have done is to use a standard Bosch 6V coil and a separate key operated ignition switch from a boat shop. The ignition switch goes into the dash hole and the coil clamps in behind it. Its virtually identical to the original and a lot cheaper than the reproduction units. You need to make sure you glue a thick rubber pad over the end of the coil so it cannot short against the ignition switch terminals.

I recently encountered an owner of a much earlier model Packard than yours who claimed to have endured chronic vapor lock over a 10 year period and had now found an effective solution.

He fitted a large vent to the float bowl above the fuel level. His car has a very small hole in the float chamber cover to allow the fuel to flow but he claimed this was not large enough when vapor lock occurred and his vent line was about 3/16" to 1/4" diameter piped down to below the engine.

Now I am a skeptic on this subject having heard of just about every solution you can think of from owners who swear the vapor lock is cured only to find that it is still there on the first really hot day.

This owner was very credible and I pass on his solution for what it is worth, I have trouble understanding why it would work but will try it on my 1920's Packard.

Until now the best solution I have found is to add kerosene however in very adverse conditions, which we sometimes experience here in Australia, it needs lots, I have used up to 20%, it makes no discernable difference to power but is very inconvenient getting it in such quantities.

A little off topic but I would like to comment on the possibility of increased risk of block cracking due to use of valve seat inserts.
The block on my 1929 633 had been fitted with valve seat inserts before I got it. I reconditioned the engine at considerable expense and shortly after running it, it developed cracks between a number of inlet vales where there is a cooling passage On examination it was clear that the cracks resulted from the fact that the block had been weakened due by the machining necessary to fit the inserts plus some loss of thickness due to internal corrosion. Bear in mind that pressing in the inserts does not compensate for the loss of strength and could increase the stresses in the area due to the interference fit and if the insert expands thermally more than the block.
I don't like valve inserts and don't think we need them given that we do not use these cars as we would our everyday car.

Mal, has just reminded me that I promised to respond regarding the original color scheme.
Packard published "Facts Books" which I understand were for the salesman. I have a copy for the 1922/3 126- 133 models and under the heading "Standard Painting" it states:
"Enclosed Cars.
Body and door panels - Packard blue, striped with gold with black moulding.
Upper body Black
Wheels - Packard Blue, louvers striped with gold.
All bright metal parts - nickel plated
All other parts black"
It would be good if we had paint chips for Packard Blue but I believe all we have is that it was a very dark blue that would look like black in the shade, obviously non-metallic.
As you will also know chrome plating was not used until 1929 on Packards.
I hope that helps.

My opinion for what its worth. An external crack like that should repair permanently using the interlocking pin method providing there is enough thickness in the casting to hold the pins and it is done by someone experienced with that type of repair.Google Metalok and you will find lots of information about the process

Its not a DIY job. I have seen far worse external cracks repaired and still OK many years and miles later. If you had it welded the block would require all machined surfaces and cylinders to be re-machined after the repair.

Obviously if a better block became available then that would be the preferred option.

Mal, Thanks for that, I am sure we will have a great time with the Packard Club of France rally, even though we will be in a tiny French rental car. A cardboard Packard grille might be the go! No? I didn't think so.
David

Tom,

If your car is a 1924 it will be a 226 and it will have the bumper mounts at the ends of the frame dumb irons. The bumpers are well illustrated in the parts book which is available. If there are no bumper mounts on your car then it is more likely to be a first series 126 with 2 wheel brakes. the 126 did not have factory bumpers fitted.
David

I agree entirely with O-D, HOWEVER, (and we are getting off topic here)are we kidding ourselves believing we are the custodians of these fine cars keeping them authentic for future generations to cherish? Isn't the reality that there will be far more cars than people wanting to own or display them let alone have the skills to maintain and drive them. Isn't it more likely that many will be abandoned due to lack of interest,storage, skill etc? Its not that there will be a demand from the developing countries like China etc. I don't see evidence of any interest and certainly no skill to maintain our old cars from the Asian communities in our country. Our cars mostly appeal only to an aging population.
Tell me I am wrong and that someone will want my cars when I am gone.