Jack,
How does the oil pump conversion address the vacuum pump mounted to the bottom of the original oil pump?
John

Thanks Owen. Anyone have a recommendation for wrist pin vendors? Also need full gasket set and freeze plugs. Have ordered a bunch of catalogs but they haven't arrived yet, and I'm trying to research online but not having much luck finding everything. Forum searches help some, but a lot of references are pretty old vendors, some of whom are no longer online. Also checked the X-ref but no info for the above items.
Thanks,
John

Jack,
Still in the tear-down process. As I stated, the engine was supposedly rebuilt when it was laid up, and some internals support that claim. There is no carbon or discoloration whatsoever on the pistons, but there is substantial pitting on the wrist-pins and some pitting on the camshaft lobes. Working with a limited budget (retired and on fixed income) so trying to do things in stages.
Do you know the standard wrist-pin size? Mine measure .98 diameter and 3.25 in length. I'm not sure what brand of piston was put in after the .030 bore since there seem to be no identifying markings on them.

Thanks Jack. I figured that was the case, but couldn't kick that memory of installing oversized rings onto a standard piston to account for worn cylinders. Of course, that was almost 60 years ago!

If I have pistons that are stamped .030, what rings should I order? My initial reaction is that I should get .030 ('30 over) rings, but if the block has been bored and the pistons are oversized, wouldn't the rings be different than using oversized rings on a standard piston?
Thanks,
John

Anything new happening with your Clipper?

Finally got the engine out of my 55 Clipper and torn down. This engine was rebuilt prior to being laid up and supposedly, never run after it was rebuilt. Unfortunately, it had been sitting for a number of years and had water ingress in the engine. I was able to completely disassemble the engine and it looks like I can salvage just about everything, but I did have some damage. It has .030 over pistons, and the bores look like they should clean up pretty easily with a quick honing. Mains, and rods look good and the cam bearings look good as well.
The front lip of the oil pan was bent and rusted away pretty bad and I broke a tooth on the cam gear as I was freeing up the frozen lifters, so I'm looking for an oil pan and camshaft timing gear for 352 V8. Hopefully, someone in this group has these used parts and is willing to part with them for a reasonable price.
I will need to purchase a complete engine gasket set, and possibly new lifters, along with a couple of other items.
I do have a couple of questions from those who have rebuilt one, or more, of these V8's. Is the rear camshaft seal part of the freeze plug set, or a separate item? What type of assembly lube is recommended today. I haven't rebuilt an engine in years, and back then I used both STP and "white lube", but I know there has to be something better now.
Thanks,
John

Fortunately, my Clipper is completely stripped. I have an aftermarket 22 circuit harness with all GXL wire. Interior is gutted as well, so I have all sorts of room to work and move things around as needed. The engine is on the mounts, but will be coming out soon which will leave lots of room to work up front.

Is this like Craig's Panther project upgrade where the holes were drilled in the firewall? Is that a 7" booster? It appears that placing the unit above the steering column would allow for the ebay unit I referenced, to be used with the included pedal, possibly without modification.
I don't mind spending money on the car, but being on a fixed budget, I'd hate to spend the $ only to find out that the unit would not fit.

Has anyone tried using an all in one solution, similar to this unit,https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Brake-Booster-MC-Firewall-Swing-Pedal-Street-Rod/270716021278?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649, on a 1955 Clipper? It seems to me that a unit like this mounted through the vent hole, would be a relatively easy method to move up to a dual master cylinder with power brakes, and not have to worry about modifying the original brake pedal to get the proper ratio. After a long time of inactivity, I'm getting ready to start back on my project. I believe my BTV is frozen and beyond repair, so I'm looking for reasonable upgrade possibilities. I'm building a "driver" and not a show car, so I plan on adding some modern amenities such as power windows and door locks, aftermarket AC, etc, so 100% originality is not my prime concern.
Thanks in Advance,
John