I have some good used cores at my Oregon shop but I have not yet checked out the one just found today. Once I do, I'll drop a PM. I have quite a few bits and pieces for 1940 110s as I owned three of them, two of which were parts cars.

While spending the morning in my California storage getting some junk outside to haul away this afternoon, I was surprised to find a box of Packard parts that never made it to my Oregon shop! Besides this NOS trunk emblem was an NOS windshield washer (the basic non-pulsing type), what appears to be a new or rebuilt 1940 front shock and a pair of rear footrests.

I also found another set of parts books back to 1935 and a 1955-1956 service manual along with a 1948-1950 Henney parts book. I’ve been looking for the latter for a long time so glad it has finally appeared but I had forgotten I had the emblem!

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You would probably need one of the little propane-type irons to be hot enough for something of this size that would otherwise dissipate heat quickly from a smaller electric iron or gun.

There are two types of connectors, depending on pump type so be sure you have the correct one. For the hook type, as I recall the instructions indicating removing the arm. I'm in the midst of rebuilding one of these two for my 1951 but haven;'t gotten that far yet as it isn't my main focus at the moment.

You may need to get the number from your distributor which is on a plate on the side. Without that, you'll just be guessing as there is no way otherwise to know which it is, especially if the distributor may have been replaced sometime in the past.

The kits that I got from them have VERY tight seals too but they do go in with some effort after making sure that all signs of deformation from the swaging of the old one. I used a sharp deburr tool for that but with some creativity you can probably use something else more readily available.

That looks very nice! Your backup light is asking to be treated the same.

For my own reference, would this apply to 1956 Clipper too?

Because the holes aren't evenly spaced, it's easier to put in the screws by hand without the locks to be sure it is aligned, then take them back out in pairs to put on the locks. It's easier of you have a short cut-off bolt to help hold in the flywheel while finding the whole pattern match.

No thread locker or lock washers but be sure to use the steel locking plates that go behind each pair. They have little tabs that are bent up against one of the hex flats of each bolt. Merritt has those too.

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