The turn signal switch I used, which was also self-canceling, handled all that without the need of diodes simply by its contact arrangement. That's exactly how it was done on later cars including Packards which did not use diodes so no reason that an earlier car would need them with the proper switch. It took all of an hour to wire it in and have working turn signals that doubled as brake lights! That same car turned up recently on Facebook Marketplace with the switch still in it and the same tires I put on it from JC Whitney as a teenager in the '60s.

Howard, I didn’t say that there were individual wires for each taillight. I said simply that the dual element bulbs could be used as turn signals so sorry for the confusion.

Good job! I haven’t gotten any of those errors but it makes sense why they were happening. I always use relative paths to the site root which eliminates the possibility.

I use these headlights which work for both 6v and 12v cars and are polarity insensitive. They look period-correct too with no dimming down at idle as conventional bulbs to.

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That was exactly my point although mine weren’t taped off. Instead they terminated at a connector block, one on either side of the front inside edge of the fenders, with nothing else connected to them. With the rears already wired from the brake light switch, the added turn signals used the same filaments as the brake lights.

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As far as I know, they make their own products although I’ve not used them since they ‘60 so not sure if that’s true today. At that time, some pieces fit perfectly (cowl vent seal, gas filler grommet) but others like the trunk handle seal were way off for my 1940.

I would love to see where that happened and the photos but unfortunately The Mercury News requires a subscription to view.

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All my 1940 Packard 110s and 1941 Henney-Packard 120 used the same element for turn signals and brake light. Granted that turn signals did not come with the 1940 but it was fully wired for it both front and rear so the front fender lights were also dual element.

Plastic body filler (Bondo is a brand name) might not be the best idea on a surface that could flex slightly in use. However, before anything else, they should be sand blasted and given a phosphate coating using something like Ospho. If you need to fill in the ridges, I think that Fiberglas would be a better choice. It’s harder to work with and you need good protection (high quality mask and goggles) but it will give a far better and longer lasting job once done. I know that body filler can have a strengthening in mesh in it but even so it’s just too brittle for this sort of thing.

Howard, they are not grooves but rather are raised upward under where each rib was. This not only strengthened the steel but also required less rubber for the vulcanizing process. They really can't be ground away as doing so would leave gaps, kind of like trying to grind off an anti-theft number from the firewall.