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Board index » All Posts (Speedwell)




Caribbean Hood
Home away from home
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Ross
Rather than drop a wad on having a bird replated, my customer and I hit on making a Caribbean hood for his 54 pickup (Packard Shipper). Really pleased how it turned out, and had a lot of fun doing it.

Used a center section from a damaged hood to make the scoop. This ends up being sturdier than popping the center up as Mitchel Bentley did. Even with the double skin the hood is much lighter than an original and does not need a hood prop. I also made it functional as I have cut two vents in the lower hood. One will blow cool air down by the carb to lessen percolation issues, and the other drops some cool air where the air filter can pick it up. May not really help but makes me feel better.

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Posted on: 2012/9/30 20:36
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Re: wind wing noise
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Ross
I have noticed that the 41-50 vent window design has a tendency to be noisy if there is the slightest gap anywhere. Other years are not so fussy. Probably has something to so with the shape of the windshield posts and how the air rolls around that corner. Noise usually seems to come from the front corner of the window. You might be able to build up low areas of the seal by spreading on thin layers of black silicone gasket maker, or by shimming between the seal and body.

Posted on: 2012/9/29 5:04
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Re: 1955-56 Clipper hood ornament
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Ross
I'd guess a comet making a turn around a planet, but in all probability I'd guess its really just a chrome thingy to ornament the nose of the car--rather like the standard ornament on the cheaper bathtubs.

Did see one at Williamsburg where the ball was plated gold and the wing was chrome--looked really cool.

Posted on: 2012/9/25 6:21
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Re: '51 Won't stay running
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Ross
Sounds like the classic clogged fuel filter/clogged fuel line that lets just a little by as it sits a minute.

Posted on: 2012/9/19 6:07
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Re: '54 oil filtration question...
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Ross
Was just reading an article about Ford flatheads and the fellow said that with the bypass filter all of the oil was filtered every five minutes or so at road speed. I expect Packard will be somewhat similar--in other words the engine is pretty well protected unless it has started throwing chunks. Even then, the floating pickup helps keep them at bay.

The next oil change on the thousanddollarwonder I will check to see how long it takes for the filter to pass a quart and report back.

Posted on: 2012/9/16 6:30
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Re: relieving valve pockets
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Ross
Here is a shot of what I often do around the pockets on the flatties--basically a smoothing of the edges in the direction of the cylinder, and a fairly rough cleanup of the biggest bumps and stalagtites in the ports. Seems to make a nice difference.

About those siamesed ports. If you work through the firing order of the L8, each siamesed port ends up drawing for almost a revolution of the crank followed another revolution before they draw again. Don't know how those carbs would react to that irregular pulsation.

We need a carb wizard to bring some wisdom here

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Posted on: 2012/9/16 6:18
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relieving valve pockets
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Ross
Don't know how to do the link, but there is a 54 Hudson Hollywood on ebait right now with a very interesting engine. There are a couple of nice photos of the relieving work around the valve pockets and also of a quite sanitary multi carb and header system.

Does anyone recognize those carbs? It would be ever so much fun to do up a 359 or 327 with similar mods.

Posted on: 2012/9/15 19:33
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Re: Off the Grid
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Ross
My condolences on a loss that will hit you often over time. But I echo what Steve said--you were brought up right.

Posted on: 2012/9/15 13:29
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Re: Twin Ultramatic Problem
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Ross
Rik, suggest you spend some time with your trans and with the hydraulic diagrams and figure out how different pressures get where they need to go. Many times the bushings are necessary to get oil under pressure where it needs to go.

For example, the torque convertor is filled (and pressurized) through the groove in the center of the bell housing bushing. If you replace that with a needle bearing, you will need a whole new path to fill the convertor.

Posted on: 2012/9/10 5:54
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Re: Bad news from my compression test I think....how can car STILL refuse to start?
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Ross
Good question. The substance of choice is probably carburetor cleaner as its about the only thing that will cut the gum from the bad gas. I recommend Berkebile, which most parts stores carry. Lay a mess of rags in the bottom of the valve chambers so you don't wash all the crap down into your crankcase.

I'd spray cleaner up the valve stem as best possible and let it sit a while. Then I would pry the valve down if it will come, and wash its stem with some more cleaner. Pry it back up and do it again til it will fall from its own spring tension. This may take several attempts as the area with the gum is far above where you are working.

If you can't get any joy this way, you will have to take the manifolds off and do your spraying through the ports so the cleaner can get on the upper part of the valve stem. Taking the head off is actually the last resort.

When you do get it running again, I think a couple of cans of two-stroke oil in the new, fresh gas might help get everything well loosened up.

Posted on: 2012/9/9 19:42
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