I'd say it has been working perfectly: particulate laden oil arrives at the outside of the filter. Lumpy gooey bits stay on the outside and drop to the bottom of the housing over a (long) period of time forming the sludge. Cleaned oil goes out the center tube, and in your case to the valve lifters next. On later cars they just dropped it back into the crankcase. Chances are your center tube is quite acceptably clean inside, but if you like you can dismount the filter, unscrew the fittings and get up inside the center tube with a gun brush and some carb cleaner.

Easy now boys, you will give poor Garrett heart seizure. Reading back through it sure seems as simple as a fuel delivery problem; just enough to idle or only just pull a light load but not enough for any real work.

If the Ultramatic has the famous stuck governor problem the engine will die when placed in gear just as if you had let the clutch out too fast on a stick shift.

Garrett, your fuel system needs to put out a good strong shot of gas with that electric pump running; check it into a jar by disconnecting at the carb.

Of course, you could also have a clogged screen at the carb entrance (under the big brass 3/4") or the swollen needle valve syndrome in the carb, or just the floats set WAY to low.

I'll bet 5 minutes with a pair of pliers and a piece of coathanger will make that retainer nicely. I may not qualify to be a Patina Cowboy but when it comes to Packards, I am a certified Eastern Bottomfeeder.

I am 100% with Mr Pushbutton on this one. Do everything at once and then enjoy the car without the perpetually furrowed brow (you) and eyerolls and door slamming (female companion).

The whole shebang will cost less than having one bumper rechromed poorly. And you can shout useful advice to the owners of cars with 20K paintjobs that are being winched back onto trailers when the temperature crests 80.

Yes, the spring should be the only significant resistance. I assume you have the autolite system where the vac adv. turns the whole dist.

If it snaps back to position when you let it go then there is probably not a friction problem.

You can easily test your advance by hooking a bit of rubber tubing to the line at the carb end and sucking on it--it should hold a vacuum, and the dist. should move. If not, it's advance time which is hardly a surprise at this late date.

Working from memory of the size of a treadlvac lid, you will be attempting to restrain about 6000 lbs force with those 6 # 10 screws......

OK, you have me scratching my head a bit with what you said. When the car is in overdrive it should not freewheel unless it is below engagement speed. If she is freewheeling above say 25 or so then the OD has never really engaged. Perhaps I just misunderstand you.

I've had a nice result by painting the wheel ivory or antique white and then giving it about 4 coats of clear with a tad of the antique white mixed in. This give a hint of the translucent effect at a fraction of the cost of a recast. Always do the shift knob and turn signal knob at the same time so they match.

Joeyearl, if you want to see what it looked like, just check out your hood release knobs. They were cast from the same Tenite material as the deluxe wheel.

Its an OK job in velour but with some oddly mismatched panels and lackluster tailoring. Even when Packard used boring fabrics in that era, the tailoring was always first rate with no puckers.

I've had opportunity to drive cars with both setups, and I know that the 4bbl gives an extra 15 (or is it 20?)hp at the top end but in normal usage the 2 bbl has a better "tip in" feel and seems generally more responsive below 80 mph or so.

When the secondaries open you don't get much of a noticeable extra push like you do on a v8--I guess has to do with the breathing characteristics of the S8 engine.

The small primaries on the 4bbl do seem to give netter mileage tho.

Was just stunned to learn that the humongous 58-60 Lincolns used a 2bbl on that 430 inch engine.