Thanks Howard, I went for a drive just now, and actually am happy with the numbers I measured. The first few minutes of driving at speed, I was getting 7.3 to 7.4, and after about 15-20 min of driving I was getting about 7.1 to 7.2. I have the gauge pulling a voltage from the back of the ignition switch, so there might be a 1/10 of a volt or so getting lost along the way.
I guess the best place to hook this gauge would be to a ground in the engine bay, and the bat terminal on the voltage regulator....That would give me the most accurate reading so I can really be sure if the 7.4 is being maintained. I may optimize the wiring and take some more measurements, but the voltage is in the right ball park.

I am suspicious that my regulator is allowing voltage to get a little bit high at higher engine rpms, so I got this little voltage Display, taped it to a Magnet, and put it on the dash so I can Monitor the voltage while driving. I measured 6.3 volts at the battery with ignition off, and 5.9 v after the ignition switch with ign on and the engine not running. I'll go for a drive when the weather is good. I think the voltage regulator might need a little clean and adjust, but I want some before and after measurements!

Attach file:

---

  20231012_210859.jpg (292.25 KB)

This morning the caribbean took one daughter to school. Half of the second grade was waving to me as I drove off, which was fun. The brought my younger daughter to Kindergarten, then stopped by the Bank on my way to work.....After the stop at the Bank, she did not want to start. I could hear a light click, and see some voltage drop on my gauge. After a few minutes and some tapping on the solenoid and starter, she turned over! I guess like Kevin in his 54 Panama, I will do a partial starter rebuild. It would be nice to use a new solenoid, brushes and bushings to get the starter cleaned up and reliable. Winter projects are lining up.

Using a 12v battery to Power my LM-2 wideband oxygen sensor I was able to take some data today on my way to and from work about the air fuel ratio from my 4bbl carb....my idle was set at just about stoich, maybe a tiny bit lean compared to what it should be. That shows up in that the light throttle cruising is also stoich, or a little lean. Under Power, the carb richenes the mixture up to a nice 0.8 lambda, which is also pretty good. All in all, the WCFB with jetting that was originally for the 327 does a very fine job on the 359 engine. I can also report that the wideband sensor running on 12v negative ground works fine on a car with 6v positive ground. (Should anybody also want to run modern test and tune Equipment on their 6v packard)
A well sorted carb works quite well!

Thanks Howard, I am slowly collecting all the parts I will need. Relays, cable, terminals etc. As usual, it will take a while, but I'll do something nice for my Carib.
In other news, I realized the wide Band O2 sensor can be used when connected to an Extertal 12v battery. Now I can see how my carb is jetted. It is a 327 4bbl on a 359, but I think it will be pretty close.

I was talking about this with a friend of mine who is an electrical engineer, and he reminded me that the H4 headlights that I have are 60 Watts each, compared to the sealed beams, which are 45 Watts each.
I estimate 20 Watts for 4 taillights and license plate light, plus 10 Watts for the Instrument panel.
That totals 120 Watts with sealed beams, and 150 Watts with the h4 lights... at 6volts that makes 19.3 amps for the original lighting, and 25 amps with my H4 bulbs.
The 30 amp circuit breaker is well chosen for a 20 amp nominal circuit, but does not have much safety margin when I am pulling 25 amps because of my "modern" headlights.
First I will clean the switch, replace the circuit breaker, and likely swap in a new high beam switch, but in the long run, (in the next few months) I think relays may get installed. I already noted the plans that were posted in some other threads....I just would like something that looks original-ish.
Plastic relays are a fashion faux-pas, I guess horn relays could work and look original, or I just hide modern relays someplace.

Correction: horn relays won't work. Maybe I can find metal housed modern relays at least.

Thanks guys! The part I ordered from a local harley place is supposed to be a "Standard electric" supplied part. Hope that means made in USA (or Mexico)
The third source I checked was the owners manual (just like Howard posted) and agree on the 30 amp rating.

The parts book, and the wiring diagram dont list the amperage on that breaker, but I saw some threads here where it was 30 Amps.8ball HD shop
Looks like that is a part used by Harley Davidson, which makes it easy to get over here.
Does this look like the right breaker?

Attach file:

---

  20230930_115436.jpg (55.11 KB)

I drove 60 miles roundtrip to Stuttgart for a friends birthday tonight, and stopped by the Porsche factory for some pictures.
Car ran well at 60-70mph indicated. On the way home, the headlights started to blink and went out. I guess the circuit breaker or the switch are 70 years old, so I will consider adding relays to the headlight circuit. No lights on the Autobahn at midnight Was not cool. Glad I could at least use my 4 way flashers!
After a few seconds I turned on the parking lights, and the a min later the headlights, and had light again....

Attach file:

---

  20230929_204236.jpg (183.72 KB)


  20230929_204302.jpg (172.77 KB)

Thanks Howard,
I drove the car ~20 min to work this morning. Part of the way with the headlights on and voltage was at a nice ~7.3 the whole time. The dummy light also stays off as I am getting 6.5 volts at idle. That was nice, but I am not ready to close the books on my charging system adventure.
I'll try the grounding of the field terminal and see what kind of voltage it goes up to. -if it goes up to 10 like you suggest, or if it stays in the 7-ish range.

I think I can hear my new brushes making a little "wissssh" noise...I just threw in the brushes, and didn't clean up the commutator or seat the brushes....I see I will be getting a phd in gen rebuilding and regulator service in my future