If you have a metal spraying shop near you? They spray on metal then machine down to correct diameter

Make sure the rubber gasket in the glass filter is not swollen up and closing off in or out.

You should have a Packard owners manual to check. With modern fuels might need to be a bit different but close. In my garage have a Motors Manual that may cover you car, will check tomorrow. I think my 1939 manual also covers 1938?
Another way is to use a low psi electric fuel pump with a small 6 volt battery run a line from some gas and the other line to your carburetor inlet on a level bench and pump fuel into the carburetor bowl and measure how far from the top the float is.

Perhaps ok? Your manual should tell you the float level from the top. You don't want to be to low or too high, either cay can cause stalling, etc. When these cars were going to the Packard garage that is what they used to do.

I cannot speak specifically to your year. But, for the 1939 12 using the EE3 carburetor. You need to be very careful with this pot metal carburetor, they can get crumbly, and always use a second wrench when loosening or tightening lines.For the EE3 the old fashioned way was to run the car with the top of the carburetor off to set the float level. Gas should not be pouring out over the top.

Will pull the cover off the overdrive relay.

Thanks, yes it is totally original Auto Lite. Since I did it all myself years ago, can be sure all original. Yes the four terminal.

Forgot I have a cranking button device, have not used in many years. Has two alligator clips, how to hook up? As I remember when connecting the usual way only got the starter to spin, but not engage the flywheel. Many years ago someone showed me the right way, but forgot so if someone could assist, thanks

Thank you. My wife is out of town just now, so will recruit my neighbor to assist in the next day or two. Cannot see from inside the front seat to anywhere a cable would reach. Will try the cable from the coil first. Then a spark plug cable.

I have had my 1808 up and running for over 40 years, at the moment stumped. Today cannot get it to feel like it is starting.There is fuel, I can see gas flow out of the two carburetor jets when I pump the linkage. Even tried a few squirts of starting fluid.
I think electrical. The points only have a couple hundred miles on them, but did the contact cleaner with card stock to make sure no carbon, there was a bit. Tried opening and closing the points a bit. Even tried another condenser. Working back pulled the cable from coil to distributor cap, ends full of carbon, cleaned them, went to check with an ohm meter and could get no continuity from each end. Does this cable have enough resistance so there would be on ohm reading on my meter? The electrical cables have not been touched in many years, only to clean or change spark plugs. Next step is to swap the coil? If the insulation on the cable that runs from the ignition key to the coil is broken down might that cause the car to crank but not start? 40 years ago at that time noticing the wire insulation was partially crumbling where it attaches to the coil. Thanks to everyone in advance.