I always end up getting surprises when I not looking for them. Usually problem oriented in my case.....
John

I would assume the key should be flush with the end of the drum and then the nut put on. Was there a washer also?
And here I thought I'd need a puller, all I need is to bump it with a soft hammer and off it will pop....LOL LOL.

John

No I haven't pulled the pan on the engine to check out the bottom end yet.
How much does one of those cast iron heads weigh?

John

I was afraid of possibly snapping the bolt on the front of the damper pulley. Maybe I'll pull the radiator out, it is empty anyway and see if I can make something here to engage in the 2 holes beside the bolt. Thanks

John

Been quite a while since I've had much time for the project. Question with a 288 and Ultramatic, I was thinking of using a piece of hardwood and put against the teeth on the flywheel to see if I can bump the engine to turn.
Does anyone see where this might hurt the flywheel?

John

I got my 1 5/16" socket in a set at Harbor Freight. It is actually a set of 3/4" drive impact sockets and I bought a 3/4" drive torque wrench which goes up to 300 ft/lbs.

John

I was thinking it was 200-240 ft lbs to tighten it. The other adjustment sounds like how you adjust the front wheel bearing castle nut.
John

Just get out the torch and heat the shifter handle up and bend it up a bit....
John

One problem I see with the unit I have is it is made for replacement of a single barrel carb. It is rated for up to 300 c.i. motor (Ford). The 288 uses a 2 barrel carb which appears to feed the center 4 cylinders with one half of the carb and the outside (front and rear)cylinders. With what I have I figure it would run rich on the center cylinders and lean on the outside cylinders. On an inline 6 they had some of this problem, on an inline 8 it would be worse.

John

I don't think, but he occasionally makes trips to the NE.
John