Can I substitue a 1949 288 for my 1951 288
|
||||
---|---|---|---|---|
Home away from home
|
I have access to a rebuilt 1949 288 H213568. I have a 1951 288 J227732 in the 1951 200 2498 now. Can I swap these? If so, what has to change? The 49 is a manual and the 51 is an Ultramatic.
Posted on: 2023/2/18 14:36
|
|||
|
1951 288 Assessment/Rebuild/Swap
|
||||
---|---|---|---|---|
Home away from home
|
My 1951 288 has a knock. I need to find someone who will assess it. Probably needs to be rebuilt. I am open to swapping it out for a rebuilt or otherwise good motor. I live in Charleston, SC. I will take it where ever I need to, within reason. If you can help or recommend someone please do.
Posted on: 2023/2/16 21:52
|
|||
|
1951 Packard 288 Oil Pump
|
||||
---|---|---|---|---|
Home away from home
|
Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF): What gasket material can I use for making a cover gasket? I'm thinking of using Fel-Pro Karropak 1/64" (Fel-Pro 3045). I measured the old gasket at about .0135" to .0145". I would imagine Packard used gaskets measured in fractions of an inch. 1/64 = .015625.
I was surprised I could access the pump for removal and re-installation by leaning over the fender. My blower is not installed. While the mounting bolts are removed, rotate the pressure regulator to 6 o'clock for removal and re-installation The pump drive has 12 slots so I guess every slot moves the rotor 30 degrees. With the engine at 6 degrees BTDC and the vacuum canister at 9 o'clock I believe the rotor should be at 7:30. Each cap position is separated by 45 degrees. On the next pump slot the oil fill tube interferes with the vacuum line. On the previous pump slot the grease cup obscures the distributor securing screw. This is related to the 30 and 45 degree choices I guess. I need a new gasket for the cover and thought I'd make one for convenience. It is Packard P/N 303930 I believe.
Posted on: 2023/1/31 9:42
|
|||
|
1951 Horn Tone Too High Resolution
|
||||
---|---|---|---|---|
Home away from home
|
I took my "Lo" horn apart. The large disk in the image is screwed onto a threaded rod which is riveted to the horn diaphragm. The disk is shown in the non-energized position. When energized the coil located within the cage pulls the disk down until it stops on the fingers of the cage. The points should open during this travel. This de-energizes the coil and the disk returns due to a metal tab attached above the disk, which wants to be straight. The travel of the disk can be adjusted by loosening the nut directly above it. I don't know how this happened but the disk was too close to the cage. This resulted in a pitch much higher than the "High" horn. The individual horn audio sprectral responses are shown in the attached images. These were captured on an Android app entitled "Spectroid" found on the Google Play Store.
Attach file: IMG_20221022_112442802.jpg (89.27 KB) Screenshot_20221021-164028.png (520.67 KB) Screenshot_20221021-170813.png (523.17 KB)
Posted on: 2022/10/28 17:27
|
|||
|
1951 Horn Tone Too High
|
||||
---|---|---|---|---|
Home away from home
|
My horns seem to be way too high pitched. I haven't been able to get my "Lo" horn tone to adjust down. They don't sound like a big, old car. Is this how they sound? What can I do?
Posted on: 2022/10/19 13:48
|
|||
|
Re: Oil Weight for 1951 288 that had rebuild 20-25 years ago
|
||||
---|---|---|---|---|
Home away from home
|
It has a oil filter canister now but not when rebuilt.
I drive it every day. I've driven it 530 miles since I got it back from the transmission shop on 18 July. No sales person has been involved in the oil selection discussions. I am inclined to follow the advise from the local "old school" engine mechanics in the shop that specializes in classic and antique cars. That's where I got the 10W30 from. I just now found out that the machine shop that rebuilt the motor is still in business but at another local location. I'll see them tomorrow.
Posted on: 2022/9/5 20:15
|
|||
|
Re: Intermittent Starting Issues
|
||||
---|---|---|---|---|
Home away from home
|
I've always pushed the pedal to the floor every time when starting. I'd think that when cold the automatic choke would close and require the pull-off when starting. I believe this pull-off occurs at the end of the linkage travel. Do the fully-opened throttle plates impede starting when warm? I believe the throttle stop is adjusted where the plates are fully vertical (90 degrees?) and the pull-off is engaged. If the starter should engage not less than 30 degrees and not more than 45 degrees I've really been doing this wrong. Just push the pedal enough for the starter to engage when warm?
Posted on: 2022/9/1 17:29
|
|||
|
Re: Intermittent Starting Issues
|
||||
---|---|---|---|---|
Home away from home
|
Wiring diagram athttps://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/wirediagrams/48-9%20%2022nd%20Series.pdf. Circuit goes from ignition switch to carburetor to starter solenoid. Trace the voltage through the circuit. On my 1951 there is a metal ball in the carburetor that is held up out of the circuit by manifold vacuum when the engine is running. Make sure the ball falls down whenever the engine isn't running.
Posted on: 2022/9/1 16:12
|
|||
|
Oil Weight for 1951 288 that had rebuild 20-25 years ago
|
||||
---|---|---|---|---|
Home away from home
|
Car didn't have oil filter canister when I got it. I used 30W conventional (no additives) at first. Next I used 30W Valvoline VR1. Local classic car shop recommended 10W-30 so I bought Lucas 10W-30 Hot Rod oil. Haven't put it in yet. I think many here would suggest 30W but is that for an original engine? What about an old rebuild engine?
Posted on: 2022/9/1 15:38
|
|||
|