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Board index » All Posts (Highlander160)




Re: Bubbles and Oil!
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Highlander160
The tank is easy to drop. No other way to get to the sender/pickup tube. 3 bolts and the neck, down she goes. There's even a drain but you're better off using up whats in it as much as possible.

The heat shield goes on the outside of the carb toward the ex manifold. Most are missing. Check for kinks, shoddy reworks from the past, a clogged additional fuel filter. The fuel pump and sediment bowl has it's own screen for easy cleaning. I've not seen vapor lock in over 10 years. Sometimes "as-is/was" is the best solution. Ask yourselves why there seems to be more Packards of this era still around.

Posted on: 2009/6/26 9:36
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Re: Rattle, squeak, creak, groan and moan!
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I love 1101s. Never met one I didn't like. Best and smoothest riding/running 8 of the classic era. Some say the 37. Hogwash. You have one of the nicest and quietest of all body styles. Start here...go under the carpets and locate the body bolts. Give em a 1/2 turn or so and re-snug as many as you can locate. Temperature has much to do with cars and bodies framed in wood so do it on a cool day. Next, look inside the trunk. There's fasteners in there that attach it to the main body. Snug them up as well. Once done get some talcum powder, shake it into a cup and take a soft bristle paint brush and coat all of the rubber stops and bumpers on the doors. Put a lot on there and don't worry about it. It cleans up easy from the painted surfaces and blows off the fabric easy as well. See what that does for you. If after that you find add'l noises then look to the chassis for things like exhaust hangers, splash pans around the engine, etc. Don't hesitate to powder the hood lacing as well. Liquid lubricants often aggrevate squeeks instead of correcting them. Talc makes for a nice dry lube on such things. You get smoother closing doors and sometimes even better fits on things like trunk lids. Good advice above regarding the Bijur system. It's essential to quiet chassis operation.

Last item, on a day when theat one squeek just drives ya crazy, go out for a drive with a spritzer bottle of soapy water. Locate the area of the squeek as in rt rear, left front, etc., and stop the car. Squirt some soapy water around the fender welting and don't be cheap with it. If the noise is gone then tighten up that fender, frame cover, or what ever it may be. Happy motoring and I hope this was helpful.

Posted on: 2009/6/22 16:33
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Re: Packard Blue Crossreference?
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Highlander160
I may have archived some color codes for the database. Gotta dig tomorrow. There are indeed 2 modernistic formulas that duplicate Packard Blue. One was a 70s Mercury color and the other an 80 Chrysler color called Nightwatch Blue (don't remember the Mercury color name). Extremely dark, almost black, best if done in lacquer then spray out a panel. Take that panel back for a custom mix for today's base/clears or single stage paints. Current mixing bases are different enough to not allow a true effect when compared to old recipies.

The biggest trick is pretty obvious to me. One of my secrets though not alone or original. Clue? The way Packard applied the color (most of their colors).

Posted on: 2008/9/6 16:56
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Re: Pic request: 41 160 interior/dash
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Highlander160
Ok it's in there now.

Posted on: 2008/9/6 14:55
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Pic request: 41 160 interior/dash
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Highlander160
I've seen several shifter styles while looking at restored cars. There's as many with what I'd call the Clipper style shift lever that the knob is bent at the end as there are straight with the large cylindrical style lever. I happen to have both. The bent one on the car, the straight one in a box. What do any of you know? I have the Oct 1940 issue of Motor with the 41 intros and It's not too clear there as most are promo or pre production "drawings" of sorts.

I also notice that most 41s have painted headlight bezels (factory shots) and restored cars most always have them chromed. I like em painted. Preference I suppose. Thanks in advance.


BTW, I did add the car to the registry but it's not there yet.

Posted on: 2008/9/1 15:06
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Re: 6 Volt to 12 Volt Conversion for 1939 Super 8
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Highlander160
I too must vote "don't do it". Good grounds and basic care/maintenence go a long way toward better electrical systems. If you want it to turn over faster, 1st check the ground circuit to the starter. Check for electrolysis or rust between the block and starter. Yes big battery cables are a must. Poor grounding is the main reason for poor 6V systems. What did they do in 1939?

A high torque starter is easy to build. The field coils (the big magnets that screw to the case) need to be closer to the armature. This is done by shims between the case and coils. Old timers know this trick/improvement. I'm not aware of any down-side to doing this. Also, always be certain the voltage regulator is working correctly. You want the generator putting out near 8V, just like modern alternators put out 14V in 12V systems. There's more but this simple overview is a good start (no pun intended).

Posted on: 2008/9/1 5:50
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Re: 41 160 Buisness cpe info wtd
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Highlander160
by flackmaster on 2008/8/24 20:48:57

My eyes are missing something. could you post a picture of the dashboard and of the data plate please? Negative, yours would be #3 on my radar. The PA car came from a known long time collector who also has a 160 Convertible and has begun to face the music.


What are you missing? Data plate is 1478. Sold new in PA, originally titled in Jan 41. Here's the instrument cluster still in place, and Here's the interior showing the doors, handles, woodgrain.


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r103/Highlander809/41PkrdMdwbrk086.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r103/Highlander809/41PkrdMdwbrk085.jpg


It's a 160 if that's where you were going. I've looked a long time for this. What else are you looking for?


Bigkev...I finally got to see the dealer info. Very interesting, very exciting.

Posted on: 2008/8/25 11:21
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Re: 41 160 Buisness cpe info wtd
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Highlander160
Well I think it's on my end, but I get the same thing on both 'puters. My acrobat reader gig comes up, I see it downloading in the taskbar, then it says done, but to a completely blank screen. I've waited several minutes thinking it's a big file, maybe I need to wait longer? if I wasn't so stoked up to see it...

I also did the right click save as deal, still a blank white page. Maybe I'll do it again and just leave it for a long while. Maybe I need to clean out my acrobat reader too, I dunno. I know Packards better than computers:P

I just did it again, got the reader to open up, says an error occured, paraphrasing, it says it's encrypted can not open.

Posted on: 2008/8/22 11:35
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Re: 41 160 Buisness cpe info wtd
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Must be my getup here kev...still nuttin.

Here's a couple shots of the car:

Attach file:



jpg  (44.93 KB)
904_48aeba3cd6366.jpg 640X480 px

jpg  (46.31 KB)
904_48aeba529437d.jpg 640X480 px

jpg  (37.81 KB)
904_48aeba7ae2589.jpg 640X480 px

Posted on: 2008/8/22 8:09
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Re: 41 160 Buisness cpe info wtd
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Highlander160
Quote:

flackmaster wrote:
And from my perch, there have been exactly 2 unrestored 41-160 Coupes to come to market in the last 4 years that I am personally aware of. One came out of the Philadelphia area, and the other out of Ontario, Canada if memory serves.


The Philly area car...Alquippa maybe? Estate sale? That would be the one I have. And 2 in 4 years, compared to most other models, pretty scarce. That woulda been an easy miss for me. Over the last 4 years I did parent care and a career adjustment. I'll be ordering the reprints this week.

Oz, I believe it. The 1475 is the most common 160 coupe and that makes sense. It's a pretty high end car for a buisness coupe.

Kev, the link is not working. Got and error message that says it's encrypted, and I appreciate you posting it.

Posted on: 2008/8/21 6:25
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