Shipping in a 3" PVC tube won't be hateful unless you're from Alaska or overseas. Light, simple secure.

1941-42 160/180 outside locking door handle. Nice part, usually shattered inside, not this one. Lock is good but needs a key, minor pitting, easy replate or decent driver quality. Hard to find in any condition. $150 includes flat rate shipping in the lower 48. Pics are big, click for detail. Thanks...

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I can't believe I still have these. I rubbed on em with some Mothers, oh my. They came out very very nice. I'd give them about 8.5-9 out of 10. Anyways, reach out, still have em.

If you mean the 320, yes. However from 37 thru 39 it was called the "Super Eight" and in the senior series cars.

https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1937-Packard.html

This is part of TCP GLobal in CA. Find your color, order the smallest amount you can, do a spray out and send it to your local supplier to make all you need. A bit of leg work but worth the effort. I think mail order paint and supplies adds effort and expense to the job that's not necessary. Lots of reasons to buy local from a logistic point of view.

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This is correct. Positive ground tends to shunt the norms sometimes. Fact, most coils don't care about voltage. Old GM cars had 2 wires in the harness before it got to the coil for low voltage run, high voltage start. Of course the Mopars we know and love had the ballast resistor but also 2 wires for 12V start, ballast run. Use that as you will, but it may have been wired backward and would really overheat the small windings rather quickly. Good luck, let us know.

There's 1 other thing that will have you scratching your head til it bleeds. The horn cover has slots for both the warm up throttle and light switch. There's a clearance notch on each side. The headlight side is much longer, or wider if you will. If they're inverted you won't have full range of headlight switch function. Hard to tell on and 8 or Su8 because the horn button has round details, no top and bottom like a 12. Just tossing it into the mix.

I breezed over a lot of replies, and not surprised to see the old tried and true "fixes" and the everlasting search for the reasons. I have some questions. When it's vapor locked, have you ever taken the fuel line off to confirm it's actually blocked by excess vapor pressure? As to it happening "...inside the carb..." that's partially true or helpful. How's the needle and seat? If the answer is that it looks new or we just got a kit from so and so, where did it come from?

Let's talk about today's fuels. I'm near Motown and I think Michigan hot summers are probably on a par with Louisiana. High humidity from being surrounded by lakes, temps in the 90s, none of it uncommon or pleasant in a vintage car. However I can't recall a single real vapor lock situtation since the mid 90s. Our fuel today, despite the rapid evaporative nature, is superior to what was around in the good ol days. Way more energy in it, more "light ends" to the blends, and frankly fuel injection CAN NOT have fuel that vapor locks so put 2 and 2 together and come out with Whiskey Tango Foxtrot. Since even our regular is better adding 2 degrees to your ignition timing is a monster drivability improvement and will tend to drop coolant temp just a wee bit, maybe 5 degrees on average. Fuel isn't "late burning" in the exhaust manifold adding a bunch of unwanted heat in the worst possible place when you do that. New formulations are also less apt to lubricate sensitive little carb parts like power valves, check balls, and the ultimate culprit, the needle and seat. Once the needle valve gets stuck in the bore of the seat (due to heat) no gas gets into the bowl and we run home to "VAPOR LOCK" because it acts like it. It ain't.

Look up Daytona Carburetor (in FL obviously) and scope out their solution to "vapor lock" via their exclusive needle/seat. Not the old viton tip or all brass. We fought the same scenario on a fresh 34 in FL on a tour and that's exactly what it turned out to be. The Daytona needle and seat was the answer, and that was back in 2010. No issues since in over 1000 miles of summer driving that I was aware of. I only use Daytona Carb parts in my rebuilds.

Now if you have that already then just stamp me a blowhard and have the mods delete my reply, but that's been the final solution twice in the last several years for me. And for the record this is for everybody reviewing this if they suffer it now and then too. Have fun, here's a link:

https://daytonaparts.com/daytona-carburetor-float-valve.html

I'll try to put this in an easy way to understand. FORGET THE PEDAL. At least for now, as it seems somewhere there's some slop or a missing return spring maybe. The goal should be to set the arm to where it is just removed from the face of the throwout bearing. Set that clutch arm where you can "read" about 1/8th max travel before it hits the throwout. Should feel a little play AT THE ARM. I've found that the best way when solo is to block the pedal up some how and keep it out of the way. Once you know where that arm has to be, set the adjuster so it hits there. After that the pedal is what it is. Too much you'll burn out the bearing, too little will require too much at the pedal. It's also quite possible you're not accounting for the lack of full syncro in the trans when you say will not shift. If you mean it grinds the gears then it's a syncromesh (or lack of) issue. Not 100% raise my rt hand sure that 29s were syncromesh which means the art of double clutching is required.

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