Gentlemen,
Thank you for your responses. Ross, yes I did (after the first removal of the pistons) re-gap the rings, After the second removal I did get a groove cleaner and cleaned out the groove until they were shiny. I must get an new head gasket since the one I am using now has been on and off three times ( and the compression of #2 cylinder is 30 psi lower than the rest of the cylinders). But I feel better that the rings are within specs. I even went as far as polishing the outside edge of the rings on a wire wheel to remove the black oxide plating. I bought a starter on ebay last year, checked the inside, beautiful, no thrown solder or anything weird so I replace the brushes and I think I'll change out the starter tomorrow, get some STP (saw some at O'Reileys) and keep on trying. Thanks, again
Casey Rog

HH,
Thank you for the information, however, what is in the manual is actually the piston ring thickness (note that the oil ring is twice as thick as the compression rings). My replacement rings are the same thickness. What I request is the horizontal distance from front of the ring to the back of the ring that fits into the piston groove. The replacement rings I got are .015 wider than the originals. I can't tell if the supplier gave me the wrong rings or the car I own has some kind of after market pistons that were installed before I bought it. I took the pistons out three times already, when I take it apart for the fourth time I need to know if I can just replace the rings or have to put in new pistons and rings.
Thanks in advance

Can anyone tell me what the width of standard size piston rings for the Packard 1951 327? The rings I took out are .144 width, the new replacents are .159 width. Is this correct?
Thanks in advance

Thanks for the reply.
I took the pistons out again and rented a piston ring groove cleaner. Soaked the pistons in Zylol, cleaned the grooves really well and put the rings back on, and put the pistons back in the cylinders. The new pistons are move up and down better now, but not as free as the originals (with 80,000 miles on the rings). Engine cranked great without the head, slower when I put the head on. However, I still have to put the pan back, and it seems the engine cranks faster now. Hopefully fast enough to start the car. The whole thing about rings is to make sure first that they are gapped properly and that the grooves are shiny clean. By the weekend I hope to start the car.
Thanks, everyone for your responses. Next, I get to see if the 1953 trans I put in the car works.

I only replaced one set of rod bearings, but replaced all the rings. All the carbon has been removed from the ring lands, all the new ring were gapped. The car started fine with the old rings, but was burning oil. Since I had to replace the trans, I figured I do the rings.
With the head removed, the car cranked fine, with the head on,it cranked very slowly. I rebuilt the starter a couple years ago when I got the car. The battery is fully charged.
Tonight I dropped the pan and pulled the head. I am going to pull all the pistons again check the fit of the piston in the cylinders at a time.
How tight should the piston fit in the cylinder? And how easy should the engine turn over by hand?
Thanks in advance

I gapped all the rings (including the oil rings) to at least .015 at the bottom of the cylinders. I only had to replace the bearings on #8 (it was about .001 oversize via use of platicgauge). i'll pull the pan again, and check everything again, maybe I should put the old bearings on #8 and give it a shot. I don't understand how the engine cranked at a decent speed with the head off, and cranks very slow with the head on. Is there any way to check how hard it should be to turn the engine by hand before I put the head on for the third time?
Thanks in advance
Casey Rog

I cleaned all the cables, with a wire brush etc,I even wire brushed the bell housing where the starter is attached. Still very slow cranking, The starter ran fine until I replaced the rings. I miced the replacement rings vs the original rings and they are almost identical (I got the replacement rings from Kanter so I am assuming they are correct. Any Suggestions?
Thanks,
Casey Rog

Thanks guys,
I went out and cleanded the cable ends and connections at the starter and at the block with acetone. I will try to start the car tomorrow. I'll let you know what happens
Casey Rog

I replaced the rings on my 1951 300 when I removed the engine and transmission to replace the transmission since I only had reverse and low. I cleaned all the carbon from the piston ring lands, gapped the piston rings. I plastic-gauged the rod bearings and only replace one set of bearings. When I put it back together I cranked the engine without he head. I cranked fine. After I put the head on last night the engine cranks very slowly. I cleaned, tightened, and put dielectric grease on all the cable ends.
Help. And how difficult should it be to turn the engine over by hand? Thanks in advance

Thanks, everyone for the advice.