I aquired a 1946 glove box clock, and would like to clean it to see if I can get it to work. How can I take off the hands to disasseble the clock? Thank you all in advance

Brian,
I did clean the pan when I first got the car. I did not remove it but dropped down the back end and cleaned out (as you did), about a 1/4" of gunk. I re-tightened the fuel pump, and really listened to the engine and the sound is more like a chug than a thud, I also noticed that the exhaust gasket is leaking at the #1 cylinder. Perhaps I shall replace the exhaust manifold gasket and see what happens. Brian I appreciate your imput.
Casey Rog

Tim,
I appreciate the info. What I have in the engine now is Rotella 10w40. The oil pressure at idle is 35psi. The noise dissapates as the engine speed is increased. I'll get under the hood and check the gas pump. I rebuilt the pump earlier this year, maybe I'll get lucky and a loose pump may be the problem.
Thanks.

I have a chugging knock in my 1951 300. It sounded like it came from the front or passanger side of the engine. I consulted the manual, ran the engine without the number one spark plug, and the knock disappeared. I am thinking that I have to replace the main bearings, at a minimum, on the first cylinder. I will not remove the engine since I do not have the space in my garage. Any suggestions as to the safest way to raise the engine and support it during the operation will be appreciated. Also any advice regarding the bearing replacement will be useful. I appreciate all the responses to my Ultramatic Questions, it seems to be working better now after the adjustments.

i REPAINTED THE TRUNK EMBLEM ON MY 1951 PACKARD 300. I TOOK ONE OF THE 20 BRUSHES I GOT AT HARBOR FREIGHT FOR 89 CENTS,
TRIMMED IT TO MAKE A TWO BRISTLE POINT, AND TRIED TO PAINT.
DIDN'T WORK. THE BEST WAY TO PAINT THE FINE LINES IS TO USE A ROUND TOOTH PICK. PAINT THE LOWEST PORTION OF THE EMBLEM FIRST.
THANKS,
CASEY ROG

GOT THE DUCT,PUT IT ON THE CAR, FITS LIKE A GLOVE, PLUS, I HAVE A FEW FEET LEFT OVER. THE COLOR IS A BATTLESHIP GREY.
FITS VERY WELL WITH IN RODNEY'S ENGINE BAY.
THANKS,
CASEY ROG

I want to thank all who offered suggestions for the duct, however, $60.00 is a little steep to spend on the Rodney Dangerfield of the Packard lineup, so I looked at McMaster Carr. I'm gonna try their Pt# 5501K64. At 3.43/foot,
five foot minimum order, it fits my budget a little better.
I am going to pick it up in a couple of days, (Mc Master Carr is 2 miles from me,). I"ll report how it worked.
Thanks,
Casey Rog

Does anyone have a source for the 5" black flexible duct that runs to and from the blower motor and vent pipe on the 1951-54 Packards?

If they are the same as my 1951 300, you have timmerman speed nuts (I believe 10-24) holding the moldings in place inside the fender. You can get the spear points off without removing the fender, however, you have to remove the front fender to get off the fender moldings. If the car was undercoated you will have to scrape the undercoating off the speed nuts, but they should unscrew.
Casey Rog

I had the same problem for my 1951 300. What I did was to use 1 1/4" Outside diameter fender washers (I got mine at
Menards) , epoxied a 10-24x 3/4" slotted pan head book-binding screw to it to hold it in place, and cut the rubber washers from an old bike innertube. Total cost for the 14 screws for the front fenders was $2.00.
Casey Rog