They are available from Steele Rubber.

I thought the early Rancheros were based on the Falcon chassis?

I'd use something like this and make sure you cover the carb fittings as well.

https://amzn.to/3Qi6IBm

What is that large red wire near the exhaust for?

I'd get out the test light/volt meter and check for power at the solenoid, and also on the small terminal when the starter button is pressed.


If no power on that small terminal then check for power at the switch.

If you have power at the solenoid and on the small terminal, then either the solenoid is bad (it should click when you press the start button.

Or there is an issue with the starter.

You could try jumping between the two large terminals on the solenoid with jumper cable to see if the starter spins.

Anytime my local Napa doesn't have the correct bulbs, I usually can find them on either Amazon or Ebay.

Mal, that's also how the line on my 54 is routed as well. Also that glass filter right off the carb.

Maybe as a test, loosely crumple a ball of tin foil over the exposed metal portion of the fuel line and fitting at the carb.

Also, if you happen to have one of those laser thermometer doo-dads, keep checking the temp of thar area after you shut down the motor up to the point it starts to overflow.

There were some later carbs that had an auxiliary metal heatshield between the carb and the exposed manifold. Also later carbs had the fuel line come out the front of the carb and I to the glass bowl filter which usually always had a little air bubble in it. So that would have acted as buffer against pressure built up in the line.

The fact pressure is building up that is exceeding the fuel pump pressure and overcoming the float needle sure sounds like fuel is boiling in that line.

Now and Then carries the kits:

https://www.then-now-auto.com/product-category/fuel-pump-kits/

It's a Lark-Up!

Have you checked to make sure the fuel line routing isn't too close to the manifold? If it was replaced in the past, it may have been routed in a tighter path than original that brought it closer to the manifold. Once the engine is off, your not getting the airflow on the line and manifold and the heatsoak begins.

As an experiment, you could always temporarly wrap the line in some scrap insulation and see if it helps. If so, you need know the line is getting too much heatsoak after the engine is shutdown.