After gently using the points file and some QD on the contacts last weekend, I went for a test drive and it was much better, but still stalled out a few times.

Thanks OD I ordered burnishing files. had a chance to lightly burnish the contacts yesterday with the burnishing files from McMaster-Carr and went for a test drive.

That did the trick. No stalling at all = Happy Camper! Multiple stop sign intersections within a 5 mile loop around my house. I also fixed a loose electrical connection and now the overdrive actually works!

What a pleasure to drive!

Thank you all for valuable insight and guidance!

-Chad

OD,

You piqued my curiosity, decided to see if I could find something similar to the the flexible strips you described.

How about these: Flexible Abrasive Contact Files? They sound just like what you described. I've just cancelled my Amazon order, and I am going to try these out.

-Chad

After I read your comment, and I posted the link, I also ordered a couple. Thanks for your insight.

-Chad

Wish I had this on hand, probably a lot more gentle on the contacts.

Burnishing Tool

Thanks again for all of your help!

Chad

Harold,

I took the OD relay off the firewall, and cleaned all of the contacts lightly with a points file, and QD electronics cleaner.

Went for a test drive, and the OD worked as expected.

Thank you to all who provided insight, especially HH56.

Thanks,
Chad

I finally got to drive the car again yesterday.

I did as you suggested, and disconnected wire #2 (connection to the coil) from the OD relay, and went for a ride. The car did not stall, with OD enabled.

I'm not sure what to check next.


Thank You,
Chad

I was able to do some more work on the car today. When I tried to start it mid-week it warmed up, but wouldn't idle at all. Turns out that the the idle mixture screws generate maximum vacuum at about 3.5 turns out, instead of 1.5 turns. Then I tore down half of the carb to resolve a fuel leak. Hopefully these steps will eliminate fuel delivery issues.

Also installed a new set of spark plugs.

Unfortunately I ran out of time to test drive with the #2 OD circuit wire disconnected. Hope I can test this during this week.

BTW the Autolite 3136 plugs were only $1.59 at Autozone. Cheapest in my area by about .50 per plug.

Thanks,
Chad

This afternoon I went for a drive, and without OD engaged there was no stalling (other than my own fault) . I was able to drive about 2 miles around my neighborhood coming to multiple stops, and slow downs.

With OD engaged I was not able to come to a stop without stalling. I coasted back into my driveway. It wouldn't restart. With Starting fluid spray, I was able to restart it without too much cranking.

I pulled it into the garage and took the top section of the carburetor off. With the car running the fuel level in the float bowl was approximately 19/32 to 5/8 rather than the 15/32 spec. It's a little hard to see in the picture, but the gauge is set for 15/32, and the fuel level is well below that.

I adjusted, put everything back together and took and took her out for a spin. Definitely drove better, with more pep. Still stalled with OD engaged, but was able to restart pretty quickly.

Here are a few pictures of the rebuilt carburetor, and one of the fuel level before adjusting.

I'm still puzzled about the stalling while slowing to come to a stop with OD engaged.

I'm pretty excited!
You guys are awesome.
Thank You for helping me make progress!

Chad

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Howard,

When I read your reply about the OD circuit, it dawned on me that I hadn't engaged the OD (pushed in the dash control) until after the 1st intersection in my neighborhood. I had it engaged between the 1st and 2nd intersection, just prior to it stalling.

When I get home from work (after stopping for starting fluid, and a spark tester) I'll go for a drive around my 'hood without OD engaged. That should help determine if I need to focus on the OD circuit or back onto fuel/ignition.

If it stalls, then I will test the spark, and test with starting fluid.

Thanks Again,
Chad

I'm not sure if this is relevant to the currewnt situation, but thought I should post it just in case. One other thing I just remembered is that after the carb rebuild, and idling to warm up I put a vacuum gauge on the main vacuum line, and it showed a steady 20in at idle.

Guys,

Thanks all for the responses.

The carburetor rebuild definitely helped; there is no more fuel dripping on the manifold. So at least that is resolved. The hesitation is also gone at initial throttle.

When it dies it is suddenly as though the key has been turned off. When cranking it will initially it will crank and crank as if it has been sitting for a few weeks, then it will sputter a little, and then finally with throttle wide open, it will come back to life. Last night was the first time it wouldn't start within a few minutes (Like last week). When I restarted it after the 2 hour break, no cranking was necessary. It started right up.

I'm not ruling out a vapor lock issue, it sure acts like it. I have a mild suspicion that's not it, because last night when I drove it It was just after warming up to idle temp, and it was cold outside, probably in the high 30s, and it stalled after less than a mile.

I'll have to get it stall in the driveway, so I can test with starting fluid, check the spark, and check to see if there is fuel squirting while depressing the accelerator when attempting to restart it.

I'll update when I have done some testing.

Thank You very much,
Chad