The brake (wheel) cylinders are 1 1/8" front and 1" rear, I don;t recall the manufacturer, I'm sure I kept the receipt and I'll look at the cylinders to see what info is on them.
The power unit is the Bendix Tredle vac, I had it rebuilt by Kanter Auto, in Boonton, N.J., which I had to send back because they sent a different unit than the one I sent them after I had specifically requested the same unit back. I am still having a problem with the rebuilt unit from Kanter.

Thanks, I did read that post earlier and while the price seems right, and at first read it sounds like a great fix. But the farther I read the more it sounds like a pretty tough retro. job. The Packard sender uses a locking ring for the sender and the cheebie bolts on, and in a different location on the tank, in front rather than the top. That probably means my sender won't work correctly. And I would have to extend my fuel line. Also the cheebie has no vent line and apparently the frame had to be notched out. Ouch!
But mainly I am trying to maintain the car as original as reasonably possible as the car now seems to be absolutely original, mechanically. However, I did have to change all four brake cylinders with repro's from NAPA, as I couldn't free up the cups.

Owen, Thanks, I"ll give it a try. I intend to do the Por-15 tank cleaning/coating process myself, since there are not any shops (radiator or otherwise)around here that does gas tank work and the pick up tube extends from the front (side near bott.) to about the middle of the tank where it makes a goose neck with the ends only fractions (1/8"?) above the bottom. It is going to be tough to prevent plugging the tube while coating and I sure don't want to have to cut the tank.

Is there a plate or spec sheet available for the 56 series gas tank. I haven't one in the repair or parts manuals.

Thanks, I'll check it out. I was surprised when I checked the local and the nat'l auto parts houses that none (at least here in Williamsburg area) have the 1957/1960 Ford gas sending units. I'll check with ford on that as well.

Thanks for the info. I got the gauge out but another tool in the box never hurts.

Rowdy Thanks, I read that article as well as the one about the voltage regulator (5 Volts)for the fuel and temp. gauges. I read over 11 volts on the orange wire to the sender unit. That seems strange but, I suppose the 5 volts going to the other side of the gauge must be a reference voltage. I'll have to check the voltage at both sides of the gauge, but it is a really tough place to get at. But the fact is the sender has to be bad because of the ohmeter readings, although it doesn't really look that bad. It is rusty but can probably be cleaned up pretty good, infact the float looks to be in great condition.

Thanks to all of you for your input and suggestions.
Good news first, I got it out with no sweat. Seems today was a good one as things seemed to go as they should. I couldn't find the piece of oak that I have kept around for more years than I care to remember. I used the plastic end of an old wood chisel (very hard american made plastic) and tapped each ear with it and "voila" it came right out. I believe it is the original sender.
Sometimes it seems just having someone indicating it can be done is just the ticket.
I tested sender by running a jumper from the terminal at the tank (orange wire #60) and moved the float up and down and the gauge moved but almost imperceptibly. I then checked the resistance of the sender with digital ohmeter and at first all I was reading was "overload", but after moving the float arm up and down several times I was reading about 140 to 160 ohms at the bottom and a range of 150 160 ohms at the top but nothing in between the top and bottom. Seems the sender is bad, but can't tell if the gauge is bad or good. Guess I'll check out the Ford 1957/1960 sender unit if NAPA or someone has one available.

Mr PB, Yeah, I have some old oak material around here I can try.
Thanks.

Randy, It is a 56 Patrician.

Owen, I did spray 3 times it with PB Blaster after wire brushing with a brass brush. I also sprayed it as I "gently" tapped the ears CCW. You are right, I sure don't want to damage it trying to get it out. The ears are pretty sharp so wooden blocks don't work well. I'll buy a plastic faced hammer. i had a brass hammer but, it apparently ran away from home or found a good hiding place.
Thanks to you both.