Eric Thanks, Randy B. had a source for a new gasket. I have heard of using shelac as gaskets before but, I have never tried it.

Randy Thanks,
Thats great they are just up the road from me in Fredricksburg, Va. I'm in Williamsburg, Va area. I looked on their website and they have what I need.

Question? Where can you find a new gasket for the tranny, fluid pan when it is removed to permit cleaning the filter,etc. Or do you use permatex or ?

I understand the reasoning for not changing out the fluid if you never have a problem or you don't go boating "literally" with your Packard. On the other hand if you don't know the history of the vehicle, like what exactly is the fluid in the trans and when was it put in there. And if it gets low do you just put in Dexron or Mercon or ATF, regardless of what is already in there. Are all trans fluids compatible with each other and can be mixed without knowing what you are mixing together. If you can't or shouldn't mix different types it could present a problem if you're on the road (long ways from the stable) and the trans needs a few pints of fluid and you don't know what is in the tranny.

Thanks for the info. I think I'll try the FA even though I have no clue as whether the trans was ever rebuilt or ever had repairs to it. I notice it leaks a little fluid (Wet spot under the car)but the fluid level remains OK.

I was thinking of changing out the trans fluid in my 56 pat even tho it shifts properly and it doesn't smell burned or discolored. I've had it 3 years and don't know when it was changed or what routine service was done prior to my acquiring it. I've heard stories of people having problems after changing their trans fluid and had none prior to changing it. What has been the experiences here.

I agree with you. I believe the motor needs to be pulled out. I know a good repair shop for it if I can't fix it. Is there anything special to know about pulling it out. It looks like there is a bolt in the housing where the motor shaft goes into the compensator drive unit and must be removed to permit the motor to separate from the compensator. I"ll pull the brain box out and take a look at it on the bench.

For some reason my earlier reply didn't go out.
Yes I did put 12 volts to each terminal (very briefly) but the motor would not run from either terminal.
Today I placed the car on jack stands high enough to keep the tires off the ground. I also made temporary connections from the two broken wires to the limit switch on drivers side. I tested the connecttions at the switch to make sure it was powered up. I actuated the lever at control box by pushing it toward passenger side of car and could hear the solenoid (don't know which one) click and got 12volts at both terminals of the motor. I don't think I should be getting 12 volts at both terminals at the sasme time. I tried to get the other solenoid to operate by pulling the lever towards the drivers door but could get no response. when the lever is left in the middle of it arc of travel the box is clicking all of the time, that isn't norman is it? I think the motor is shorted because of having voltage present at both terminals. It would seem voltage should only be at the terminal for driving the motor in that direction.

Randy, Tried to get back to you yesterday but was having a problem with computer kicking me out after a few minutes. I think it was the cox cable connection. Seems fine today.
(1) yes, each solenoid clicks when I touch a ground jumper to the center term.

(2) I have 12 volts at both sides of the toggle switch (with the switch to the on position,toward the center of the car) until the brake is depressed.

(3) I can hear the control box clicking when I actuate the lever for the limit switches, It seems the box clicks (about 7 times, about 7 seconds) when the lever is moved in one direction but,does not click at all in the other direction.

Randy, Thanks again for the quick and helpful advice. I replied to you last night but, I noticed when I logged in just now my reply didn't go out for some reason. I can't do anything on the Packard today, we are getting some strong winds (40 to 50 mph gusts) from "NOEL" and will not clear out until late tonight or tomorrow. I could not find any connectors in the wiring for any of the T/L components under the car, which makes me believe it is all oem. However I believe someone had tried(and maybe did) remove the limit switch closest to the drivers door, which I think is the up switch. Both of the wires were broken but did make intermittent contact when jiggled a little bit. The other limit switch does not appear to have any broken wires and I should be able to determine if it is working once I figure out the problem with the motor but it may be better to go ahead and cut the wiring, remove the switch and make sure it is ok, then add wire connectors and install both switches, and see if the motor will run. I do know the solenoids, stop light switch and toggle switch work. What do you think?