Here is a schematic from Motor's Manual. Packard probably has one somewhere but didn't see it in the regular places.

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That's it so you aparently have the R6.

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The easiest way without crawling under is look at the relay on firewall. The R9 has a large black box about the size of a regulator with 6 terminals. The R11 has a smaller usually silver or natural metal box having 4 terminals and an external fuse on the side. I don't believe the R6 has a relay or if it does, will be on the smaller side.

EDIT: R6 does and appears to be a 3 or 4 terminal--not sure about the external fuse and where it is mounted.

Probably right on the SG. 55-6 lists that as solex glass. No idea on the PB or LS. Only mention of PB is 56 & obviously incorrect for 54 as it stood for push button. LS doesn't show either year.

EDIT: Brian mentioned LS as Lustre Seal & does show in 56 list. Possibly 54 also as that was some kind of wax or other finish on the paint. Packard was promoting that and something called Blue Coral treatment quite frequently.

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A real Packard man and old car guy. As long as we have our priorities straight, all is well.

Probably others more versed in this for automotive but I would think something like a Time Serthttp://www.timesert.com/ or E-Z Lockhttp://www.ezlok.com/InsertsMetal/index.html repair would be a better alternative since they are solid units vs a coiled wire that just winds in. In medical equipt I've worked on, this solid type was factory supplied when a repair to a stressed piece was needed.

Since the 21st series, Packard studs have a special thread on the end into water jacket to reduce leaks. If you use the proper stud, that might be an issue threading into any kind of repair as apparently happened in reverse causing your original problem. Packard mentions they are not interchangeable so you may need to buy or have a special stud made for the repaired spot if your old one that was changed is not usable.

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Phils38 said it and would assume yours should have approx same values as his. There is only a couple of places the drop could happen with your setup. Bring the battery back up, check the connections including the battery cables, switch, and ground again. It's also possible the pull in coil contacts inside the solenoid need servicing. If it still doesn't work when the battery is up, then that would be also be a place to look.

Glad you were able to find a build slip. So many have disappeared over the years or became totally unreadable.

I can't say for sure they are the same & I don't think there is a 54 option sheet on site but a lot of the items seem similar to the 51-52 build options. If so, this might give you an idea as to what your car had.https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/24-25th_Series_Options.pdf

There is also a 54 Clipper owners manual for download if you haven't found it already.

Is your OD solenoid the R9 or R11. Sounds like the 11 because you say "wire" but if the 9 are you using the toggle switch to work the original 6 terminal relay? It should pull in at 5.85 volts but depending on what you have, there are a couple of places it could be dropping. The relay contacts and connections would be a good place to look as also the fuse contacts if you have the R11 relay. Have you tried removing solenoid and see if it pulls in?

Probably right but all aftermarkets seem to be the round tube.

Problem with the factory type of the time aside from almost a foot square was the core thickness and airflow direction. No way to space it out enough to get air flow thru the flat. The tubes were nowhere close to what was needed either.

With the heater box so air can flow thru the flat side, you have a better option than the 5-6 where it has to be thru the edge. There is just no room to make anything thicker than about 5 inches fit up under like the original. The Classic Air Hurricane units sit much lower than the factory and yours may also have to go low.