There is no comfortable way. To work under the dash.....even with the seat removed. I like the idea of finding someone with small hands but I think a contortionist under three feet tall is in order.
If anyone knows of a shop with a skinny mechanic ....please let me know. I have a speedometer that needs pulled and may sell the car rather than hanging upside down for the project.
Too bad most Packard owners are already eligible for Medicare..

I have a 55 Cadillac and a 57 Lincoln.....in addition to my 55 Caribbean.
The Cadillac has a master cylinder mounted under the floor- similar to Packard pedal arrangement- but a Hydro- Vac unit that mounts to the radiator support on the passenger side of the radiator.
The Lincoln has a conventional firewall mounted master cylinder and a Tredle- Vac unit that mounts to the firewall adjacent to the master cylinder with a vacuum tank under the driver side fender similar to the Packard .
The conversion of the Lincoln to a dual master cylinder with integrated power brake unit has been done by many users. It is a straight forward switch to a later model power brake unit from a drum brake full size FOMOCO unit.
I have had no problem with the Lincoln except brake overheating with long grades....and one failed wheel cylinder.
THe Cadillac functioned well for for over 20 years but I did a complete brake replacement around 3 years ago when the power brakes ceased working. The Hydro- Vac unit was professionally rebuilt by a highly recommended shop in California. And the lines, wheel cylinders, brake shoes and master cylinder were replaced at the same time.
The system worked well, but two years ago I had driven the car around 7 miles and parked. When I returned to the car the pedal went to the floor and to have the car hauled to the repair shop. There were no broken lines or failed cylinders, but the master cylinder was empty. After the fluid was replaced and the system bled, the brakes were fine....for around 5 miles.
The Hydro vac has a ball check valve that is no longer produced and despite cleaning and bench testing it did not function and sucked the brake fluid into the engine until the system failed.
The rebuilder was able to secure a new Hydro vac unit from the manufacturer to replace the original. It was slightly larger but fit the original location and solved the problem.
My original two BTV units were rebuild by Tucson Packard and never worked.....hard pedal and no stop. I had another unit rebuilt by Max Merritt ( I think they use an outside contractor) and it has worked well for the limited driving I have been able to do since the car was completed.
I think the Kanter's evaluation is probably correct. The units need to be rebuilt by someone who know how to do the work and the rod should be replace with stainless.....and the system checked regularly after storage.
These are all primitive systems and the cores are over 60 years old.
Anyone expecting handling , braking or reliability of a new car is probably delusional......but it would be nice to have the things give a warning before leaving you without brakes.

There is a nice 36 roadster for sale on eBay with what purport to be original artillery wheels with oak centers.
Got into a conversation regarding whether the artillery wheels were offered as an option for later models. A friend said that 36 was the final year offered.
Also question whether the wheels would be safe at highway speeds

I am suffering from insomnia and killing time reading old posts. The answer to this question is that the windshield frame of the 55 Caribbean consist of three cast bronze pieces. As stated in the post there is a long bronze piece that spans the top of the windshield and bolts to the two side pices. It seems apparent that Packard opted to cut off the steel side supports for the windshield to fit a shorter windshield for the Caribbean. The two side pieces slide into the old channel and are held with heavy Phillips head bolts which are countersunk into the inside of the frame and then sealed over and smoother with lead.
We pulled the windshield frame to allow caroming of the bronze frame pieces which were heavily corroded....thankfully the windshield survived removal and replacement of the rubber gasket. That is a job that I would not want to tackle again. fortunately I have a friend who does not consider this kind of activity a big deal. After the time expended....he would not volunteer to try it again.
I should have pictures somewhere and hope to offer the whole series to the Forum covering the entire restoration .....if I can ever finish the punch list items that need completed.

Don- I am not licensed to practice in the state of California but you are getting your blood pressure up over a matter of principal. We in the profession advise that principal pays. If the other party is not responding to your calls, odds are better than even that they will not respond to a letter from a lawyer. People,who are not used to being threatened with suit may tremble upon receiving correspondence from a lawyer but those who engage in.these types of practices will use the letter for toilet paper or practice of their hook shot......and you will be charged for the time.
If you reside in the vicinity of the other party, most jurisdictions have small claims courts to deal with these matters. Other jurisdictions have a consumer protection department usually listed in the directory of state services.
All things considered, you have spent more time on this post that most clocks are worth.....assuming you value your time. If you need a restored clock and the price is right....pay the bill or waste time looking for a replacement and the aggravation of finding someone to restore it.
My mentor once advised that you must learn the difference between problems and inconveniences. A lump in your oatmeal is not the same as a lump in your wife's breast. It you do not learn to distinguish the difference, life gets too dramatic.
RJR

There is certainly a growing interest in low mileage original cars of all vintages. The expression that they are only original once has a lot of merit. The " benchmark" cars afford the restorer with a template for the restoration process and also affords a guide for judging.
That being said, the popularity of shows like " What's MyCar Worth" and the hoopla over the Mecum and BJ auctions seems to lead to the perception that old cars should be treated like works of art or fine wines......something to be acquired but not used.
I can understand a museum paying hundreds of thousands of dollars for a unique car, but what do you do with a Boss 429 Mustang with 8000 original miles that cost $450,000. If you drive it.....the value goes down. If you are not a museum, you store it and hope that someone else will pay you more.
The person who just wants a car to use as it was intended....as a means of transport....tends to be pushed out of the market by escalating prices.
I suggest no solution but feel that there is a place for the original, low miles cars and a place for the restored trailer queens but I prefer to own cars that maintain their original integrity but get to see the open road.
We are getting to the point where a goodly portion of the population have never seen or heard of the Packard.....and that is a shame.

I have to side with Fred on this issue. It is a,replacement tank in the sense that you can install it in your Packard. The indentation allows for use of an unvented cap.... Big deal.
IIt is reasonably priced and I wished it had been available when I was doing my Caribbean. I had to search for a solid core and the spend more to have it cleaned and coated so that it would last for the duration......and the cost for that service was more than Kamter charges for the replacement.
If one chooses to be a,purist and have a tank without the notch.....buy a good used tank and have it refurbished.
If you do not want a drip from an old vented tank, stop filling before it reaches the level of the filler tube, avoid sharp turns and park out of the sun.

Actually- the 56 is in better shape for restoration than my 55 was at the time I brought it back from Dayton. It is still assembled which gives you the opportunity to remove and document the salvageable parts. The stainless is still on the car and the chrome may afford salvageable cores.
I agree that whoever opts to restore the car should already have or be looking for a solid 400 hardtop to replace the front clip, quarters, trunk, floors and perhaps the doors but those parts are interchangeable .
It will be a big job and hopefully the frame is not destroyed ....but it can be done .
The big issue as I see it is whether it will be cost prohibitive. The ads for the car made much ado about the serial number and that the restored car would be worth $300,000, but I have been watching the sales since I acquired my car in 2010 and have not seen any prices approaching that figure. Most recent auction results and Hagerty Guide have shown a general decline in the prices paid compared to figures from before the market crash. There seems to be some rebound but I have not seen a sale approaching $200,000. I am sure someone will correct me if I am mistaken.

The restoration of a car should not be dependent on the potential sale price, but it should at least be a consideration. Too many projects get started and abandoned due to the cost of parts and labor.
Even with an experienced restorer capable of doing the mechanical, body and paint work personally, the cost of parts to restore the mechanicals, trim and upholstery will be expensive. The number of hours required to do the required work will be huge.
Paying a professional shop to do the work will clearly put the final cost well above what is being paid for completed cars currently on the market( i.e. The 56 currently on eBau for $129k or best offer)
I do hope that someone has the skill, time. and the money to get the car back to showroom condition but the V-8 Carribeans may not be the best investment opportunity for many years.
Just my opinion .

Now that I have settled down I would like to get to work on the Caribbean top. I have been unable to find any details on how the broken piece can be removed except for indication that roll pins are involved. I would also like to determine whether the three screws that apparently attach the top bow thread into the top bow or have nuts to hold them in place.
Since 55 Clipper has experienced the same problem and has reinforced the broken piece with a metal strap, maybe he can advise on how the strap is attached.
Any photos, diagrams or blow up pictures of the assembly would be appreciated.
I would like to see what I am getting into before starting.
Thanks in advance for any information.
RJR

I hope that the photos attached give someone an idea why this bracket broke at this location,,,,,,and if it is the same place where others have experienced problems,
I agree with Leeedy's conclusion that old aluminum is brittle and breaks easily and concur that any of the problems he posits could explain the initial
uneven elevation, My pumps,hoses and cylinders are new and undamaged
and the hid is ATF.
I am wondering whether the top being too tight could result in stress to the
Frame components.
I disconnected the cylinders and was ableTo easily drop the top and get it under the boot today and may just leave it that way for a while and enjoy fhe car.

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