I was advised that if the inside gets "Jet Hot" 1st then the glaze or porcelain after it should last for 12-15yrs before anything starts to show. I kind of agree since "Jet Hot" was the originator of high heat ceramic metalics from aviation and aerospace apps. FWIW $900 seems like a lot to re-glaze a manifold, but perhaps that's the going rate these days? Also was it the set or just the exhaust? It wouldn't hurt to make a support plate from some heavy angle as well to keep warpage in check. That was an issue I got sick of dealing with and that worked for me. I think it was 1/4" X 4" angle iron we used. It's been a while so...

Send it back. It's not your problem. You need to get the wax type build up out of the radiator. Old coolant (anti-freeze) will gel up somewhat and dry to a waxy consistancy. This in turn plugs up the tubes. The best way to rid this problem is an ultra-sonic cleaning at a radiator shop that has their S#!T together. Try an industrial or heavy truck specialist. Instead of using harsh chemical it's done with a vibratory process. Peace of mind and all...

That looks like a Super Eight I know, it's on his card but I won't post his name w/out his permission.

Owen...I hate to be picky but the 12 hubs are substantially larger and of course require larger diameter caps. There's only one model, the LeBaron Speedster, that used the Eight/Super Eight wheel and they afixed a 12 cloisenne' to the center of the 6 cap. I always figured this was a result of the 1103 chassis used by LeBaron to build this car. The V-12 fit the Super 8 engine compartment of the 1103 and they kept the smaller hubs wheels, drums, etc.

Let me be clear here. The moulding, trim, wireon, tack strip, or whatever else it may be refered to in this post is just as owen-dyneto says, an extruded aluminum product. It's available new from LeBaron Bonney and the same as found on most American top inserts. It looks very similar to fabric wireon in appearance and function. The use of fabric wireon is a cheap and easy 'fix' and looks it. As with all tasks in restoration time and patience are key. Unless you do them all the time it's not a fast process to make it look as new. There will be final painting involved that needs to be of the same quality as the rest of the roof sheetmetal. I may have posted before, many models had the fabric insert mat'l and the trim in body color. I can't say with total recall when that practice began or ended. Take some pics and show us what ya got...


Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that that's indeed the 3M stuff to use.

Regarding sealant on inserts...

once the top mat'l is tacked into place the use of a non-hardening strip caulk in the sheet metal channel seals the body and base of the metal 'wireon' style trim. 3M is a good product, black in color and easy to use. Once the trim is tacked on the underside that carries the tacks takes a liberal amount of strip caulk before folding it over and the excess is easily cleaned and dressed and is also paintable. Make sense?

What year, series, body style? Most are painted body color. The mouldings are available through LeBaron Bonney. It's essentially aluminum wireon and it's also nearly an art form to install it. Once installed it needs to be filed or leveled and finished in body color also. Many replace the OEM stuff with fabric wireon (the fold-over tackstrip covering). Looks like poo that way. Take your time around the corners. Good luck and post or PM any questions as you go. I'll be glad to help. We've done a few.

There's a few classic-era Packards in a Ronald Reagan movie from the mid 30s called "Accidents Happen". Reagan played an insurance agent looking into auto insurance fraud. There's a 33 or 34 coupe roadster used in a street saftey zone to fake an accident. The car gets enough time to know what it is but I haven't seen it in years.

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I don't know, in fact I've been here all my life and never heard of em. I'll ask some of the 'old guys' if they know. Around here it's mostly "imported" gas station owners.

Small fuel lines and an excess of fittings, especially 'machined' 90s can cause dead spots in the flow of fuel to the carb. Return lines work but as already said can be cumbersome at best to engineer properly. Over the decades of restoration work we've done we find that going to what was engineered by Packard is the answer. Here in MI we get that nasty high humidity heat that really soaks everything, yet on the hottest days and waiting in show lines, you guessed it, no vapor lock. The best cure is the OEM mechanical pump being in top working order.

The 34 Bridgeport is an 1101 converted from a 5pass cpe.(717). I restored that car but don't jock me too hard for the color. Not my choice as I didn't own it. It was a 'love or hate it' combination. I had suggested a very dark brown with a wheat colored chassis (still that I think) and neutral tan leather with burnt orange wheels and stripe. The top was originally leather covered and was 1 large hide. To get that again was a special order from Spain. Most of the wood in that car is original except the plywood panels. As I recall there was 1 corner post and the fluted finish pcs behind the fenders that were replaced/re-made. It was white oak and a hardwood wholesaler in Dearborn, MI (Patterson-Buck Hardwoods, sadly now gone) was very helpful in helping us size and commercially plane things to proper specs. It was a restoration that I mostly enjoyed and it got lots of ink and many 1st place awards. I always felt if the color was a tad more green than what was final picked it would've been much more pleasing to the eye.


Apparently it was quite fashionable to have a custom or high-end station wagon on the eastern shore towns that had yacht and sailing clubs. A crest was often used as ID in these clubs and were many times fixed to the cars to let fellow sailing and yachting friends know that they were out to sea. We did find evidence of some sort of panel attached to the back lower gate. Much of this is 2nd hand info I gathered during restoration but it made sense.