I see the reference you mean so maybe there was a later change or a bulletin advising dealers to do something. The original owner of this bulletin from Feb 53 I now have appears to have drawn a slot on the shaft for a screwdriver.

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No idea on the blue unless someone did a repaint, Believe those transmissions were gray or green. Not sure which instructions you were looking at but I didn't see a screwdriver mentioned on the throttle other than a picture showing one adjusting a carb. at the start of adjustment to get the idle set properly.

There was a very early change in the lever/shaft mount removing a woodruff key and just using the bolt to clamp the lever on shaft but still don't think they ever used anything but a rod thru the holes in those original Ultras.

I guess it would depend on which engine and the condition. Some engines are fairly rare and worth saving and others are fairly common so not as valuable. Same with the drivetrain.

The motor number would be located approximately at "A" in the illustration if it is around the year you think. Later engines might have it more toward the rear above starter motor but still along the same horizontal plane. If you can find the number, then the particulars of year, size and construction are found herehttps://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/PackardEngineSerials.pdf. The format would be a letter followed by several numerals. There might possibly be an ending letter or symbol if the engine had some running changes.

The body and year series info should be around "B" although others can correct me if different on commercial cars. Later years would have body info on drivers front door jamb. The other numbers are not as valuable for identification since not many records are still existing-- although if you can get a complete set of all you find, one member is keeping a database

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Sanden is the way to go without question and I mentioned that would be the best option to the original poster. I have decided to replace my Lehigh with one--and maybe most of the entire unit with something else as well. More information will be coming if it works.

For those not wanting to convert to 12v or give up any outward semblance of originality or the era appearance, compressors become a problem. Almost everything else under the hood can be made to look appropriate but not a modern compressor.

As an additional question, I am wondering if anyone here has ever tried a Sanden on 6v. Specs say minimum clutch pull in is 7.5v but other car forums report some success.

Very true and can be done. Two problems arise on early compressors--those with the mechanical clutch connections designed for an "on and stay that way" condition are not designed to catch the sudden load repeatedly and frequently & start to slip and overheat in some cases, or the mechanical links break in others. The other condition on early piston type compressors arises where the build up of high side pressure in the system averages when cycled off and then all of a sudden, compressor turns on and the piston has to move against it. If not designed for it, then a tremendous load is applied to piston, valves, and other components and something eventually breaks.

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This is pretty much the way things have been since at least the early 90's and maybe even earlier. Lower end aftermarket systems used the clutch as soon as compressors became available with robust more heavy duty units but factory system cars up until the change did the constant on-reheat the cold air-style temp control. IMHO, that is a superior system as there is no humidity change as happens when the clutch drops out and suddenly thawing moist air is blasted into the car.

Mostly because of fuel economy numbers and trying to squeeze the last drop for the fleet averages, most US companies almost overnight adopted the cycling clutch. I am sure cost of components had something to do with it as well since the clutch system is much simpler with no POA or assorted similar temp control valves and plumbing to worry about.

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As to the R12 to R134 change, I'm glad you have had success but there is a big issue with oil compatibility. 12 uses a mineral base and 134 uses PAG or Poly Alkaline Glycol. The two are not compatible at all and mixing will destroy the effectiveness of both as well as prevent microscopic droplets being carried through the system to lubricate other items. Since the oil does pool in various areas, it is almost impossible to get it with vacuum alone. Usually a drain of the compressor and a system flush is needed as well.

134 also has different pressure and temp curves. While most modern systems are over-engineered and won't be too adversely affected, those with marginal condenser or evaporator capacity will be. Straight 134 is not as efficient as 12 so at equivalent pressures is about 10 degrees warmer but there are some approved products that can be mixed in to bring to almost the same level.

My 56's are also tight and does need a rubber mallet. Not sure I'd want to loosen them too much or might pop off with any wheel flex or potholes.

I don't know if you have driven Packards of that era before but starting and acceleration in high can best be described as leisurely -- particularly if comparing to later Packard models or a modern car. The motor does sound as if it is revving and doing nothing because there being only one gear, essentially it is a straight piece of metal to the wheels and all the work is done by the torque converter while picking up speed.

It is also possible the long sit has resulted in valves sticking causing an issue. The harsh shift could be normal as the transmission was not designed to be shifted when in motion and when doing so, the timing and pressures are not regulated properly. Slipping and harsh shift can also be caused if the throttle linkage is out of adjustment causing improper pressures, and of course if the high range clutches are worn. If the trans fluid smells burned, I would look into that possibility. Packard53 makes a good suggestion in downloading the Ultramatic information. There is a trouble shooting guide there that lists some causes of various symptoms you or your mechanic can check.

Park is a mechanical function. When you move the lever to park, the linkage pushes a pawl against a spring up into mesh with a toothed gear preventing it from rotating. When you release park and go into another gear, the spring pulls the pawl out of engagement so the gear can turn. It sounds as if either the long sit has varnished up the shaft or pawl to the point it is sticking, something has been bent and is jammed, or else the spring has broken or does not have the strength to pull it down. The pan can be removed and all is available within view to see exactly what is happening.

Am sorry to hear the battery brain didn't work out. Was there a specific problem or just overall didn't work as advertised. Am curious if something could be changed to make it work better or overcome the deficiencies.

Unfortunately, it appears nothing much is available for 6v remote control operation--at least I haven't found anything else. Just like air conditioning, 12v has a lot of options and 6v next to none.

For those who have 12v, Watson's Streetworks has several solenoid setups with different actuating methods that looks promising--made for the streetrod crowd . A little pricy though if you want the remote fob because that setup is separate.

As Owen_Dyneto mentioned, most Packard trunks of that era were flocked on the sides and with some kind of mat for the floor. My 47 is a brownish color and a 51 I had in high school was more grayish.

This site has the flock materialhttp://www.donjer.com/index.htm but as Ross mentioned in another thread,https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=58518#forumpost58518 forget the applicator and after the glue is applied and ready, just throw the flock by the handfuls into a small fan, appropriately aimed.