From specs, with auto trans from 1010 to 1050# depending on which version. Probably subtract 2-250# for trans and doubt that includes bolt on stuff.

Believe that one was mostly leather so will set you back plenty.

Don't know of any kits either except believe Kanter used to (maybe still does) have a generic-- worked with a supplier that would sew up something that fit with basic modern fabrics-- thing like the current carpet and headliners.

I'm curious to hear an idea as to what a finished upholstery shop job would cost today--just to see how bad it has become if I ever decide to finish the 47.

Just looked at receipts from 1989 when I had a Pacific interior done almost from scratch. Saved the headliner and I found a vendor with the correct pattern seat fabric (white/black) and dyed it myself to correct color (green/black). Everything else--carpet, vinyl, etc was supplied & done by a good quality shop. At that time his part with the receipts I have was $2844.73 and we are not the highest priced part of the country here as far as labor goes. Am sure there was some small cash outlays not counted in that as well.

Also read they were going to two models next year--not sure which two remain but locally judging from the used car offerings, great majority of the past few years sales seem to have been the Grand Marquis. Seem to recall reading Ford was getting rid of the rear drive chassis--not sure when--but if that's the case and the model gone don't know what they will have left that would sell here.

You have to pay for the Lincoln name don't you? IMHO, the Versaille was not nearly as bad as the Cimarron.

Seriously. Never tried the Mercury or Lincoln, but I had occasion to drive a Grenada for a few weeks when they were current. Believe that is the only car I can remember where the gearshift lever was so close to the dash you could move it and the hand would hit something else simultaneously and usually turn whatever you hit on or off.


The 1970's and 80's was Badge engineering at its worst.

There was a commercial back in the 80's making fun of badge engineered GM cars all looking alike. I think it was Fords commercial.

Gerd, I wouldn't be surprised if not many overseas knows what Mercury is. I'm not even sure they were sold anywhere else but here in North America without looking it up. Believe it was a model designed and introduced in late 30's to fit the price gap between Ford and Lincoln and compete head on with GM's mid level brands. Think early on it was a fancy Ford, then branched out, became a bit bigger with a different body & more or less distinct personality. Some of it's mechanicals then were shared with Lincoln more than with Ford. Later on it came back full circle and as bkazmer said, is today nothing more than a fancy Ford again with a different grill (& higher price).

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A beautiful car but admit I never paid much attention to details not being really into the older ones. Have to agree, the blocked off window area makes a huge difference. A radio in the hole would be nice as well. A question I have on the restored one. Would the chromed wire wheels have been available then? Those seem out of place. The unrestored car wheels (painted??) seem more appropriate.

Article on the newscast mentioned Ford is going to ask board of directors to discontinue Mercury brand since sales have fallen over 70%. If it happens, guess another old(er) one bites the dust.

It gets power from the aux circuit breaker via body feed wire so if you have a trunk light or rear seat cigarette lighter that work then the power side is OK. Gets ground from either of the open door pillar switches or the manual slide switch on side. Any or all of those could be dirty or poor connection. There is also a 2 wire connector about 6 inches from the light stuffed behind the housing which could have broken or maybe never reconnected at some point if light was removed.

Kev, beat you to it. Here are some from a 56 but maybe 54 has something different besides length. This was a bit snug as the dimples do fit right into the holes in the tabs.

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Can you visually see the condition of the contacts or when you do press on them do they feel like they are mechanically sticking? If so, then dressing with a contact burnisher--not file-- or replacing would be the option.

Assuming all the other mechanicals are in good condition, connections clean etc, you might also try repolarizing the generator. May not help but won't hurt either.

There has to be enough residual magnetism to allow the generator to self excite and put out enough to energize the regulator cut out coil from it's off state. Once that is done, it can connect the rest of the circuit for operation.

If contacts are not mechanically sticking, then it almost sounds as if that magnetism is very weak, or a connection somewhere is oxidized with enough resistance that after sitting, the initial pull in voltage is not adequate. Driving or vibration keeps things operational until the next down time.