Yes, you can do a credible job with a brush, I've seen and done several that way and they can be quite presentable. Especially where the cast iron has a rough texture, the brush strokes tend not to be very visible. Thinning the paint a bit and perhaps the use of a retarder (to slow drying) will also mimimize the brush strokes.

All Packard straight 8s except the 1934-39 Super Eight and the 34-36 Eight have bypass filters. Ditto for the V8s.

Glad you guys enjoyed the photos, I certainly enjoyed seeing and photographing the car. Your comments bring a few others to mind. (1) Though Stalin loved the 41/42 Packard design, he wasn't the first Russian ruler to have a love affair with Packard, there is an occasionally seen photo of Czar Nicholas II in his Twin Six with skis mounted on the front wheels out flailing thru the snow and as I remember reading he had several Packards. Given the interval between the dates of the Twin Six introduction and his abdication, he didn't have all that long to enjoy them. (2) Responding to PackardTwelve's comments about the folly of producing the ZIS 110 during the war, the ZIS 110 was a post-war car, though design work may have occurred during the later parts of the conflict. Guscha will correct me if needed but I believe the car was introduced about 1947 and produced thru 1952 or thereabouts.

Another European leader who had a liking for the 1941/42 Packards was the King of Norway who I believe at one time had at least a half-dozen; some were used by the occupying Nazis during the war and atleast one survived the war to see Royal service again postwar and I've heard (not confirmed) is still in the Royal stable. PAC had a short story on this back some many years ago.

The last Packard I know of that was bought for offical European government use was a 1956 Patrician bought by the government of Iceland; local PAC correspondent in Iceland Siguborn Helgason related to me that it proved very troublesome and was either returned or sold off shortly thereafter.

I'm really glad I started this thread, it surely has gotten a lot of interest.

I guess it would be as big a job as you want to make out of it. Look at Big Kev's beautiful engine paint work which I'm sure took more hours that he wants to count. If that's the kind of result you want, then do it. If not, do something less ambitious. That said, I've always though that making the engine compartment attractive and correct is a nice job, no particular skills needed, inexpensive, and very rewarding.

There is no doubt your engine should be gray. You asked if it could have been a replacement engine since it was green. To be a legitimate green it would almost certainly have to be 1947 or earlier (though there is some debate about the 356 engines in the 22nd series) and there are so many differences, motor mounts for one, water pumps for another, that that's really not very likely. Checking the motor number would of course settle that issue. I'd bet that someone repainted it green either because they found that more appealing, or were just uninformed.

I mentioned in a prior post in this thread that I'd post some pictures of a 1950 parade car (convertible sedan to us) here in New Jersey. It's been in the states for a number of years, was partially restored some years back, and is now enroute back to Russia. This is the 6th ZIS 110 that I've been lucky enough to examine. Hope you enjoy.

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Along the steering column, from the lowest point of the steering wheel to the column stanchion at the dash is 11 inches. Again, a measurement from a closed 1934 Eight.

Using the T/L to raise the rear body up certainly is helpful with the tight clearance when changing rear tires and makes it a bit more pleasant when doing a rear wheel brake job. But do it before you jack the car up and then, as I forgot and Lloyd reminded us, turn off the system or kill the battery.

One thing I haven't seen touched on in these discussions of the automotive motor oils of the 50s/60s were the various grade designations (before the API grades came into use). As I recall, they were ML, MM, and MS with regard to the additive packages, meaning "mostly light", "mostly medium" and "mostly severe" service. Anyone else have a recollection of this?

Just as an aside, try to always indicate what year and model car you're asking about. You say it has the electric adjusting suspension so it must be a 55 or 56. No, don't use the bumper jack; no one should really use them except in an absolute emergency. First, they are not all that robust, second they can be dangerous, and lastly you'll risk damaging the bumper. Of course you can use a hydraulic jack so long as it's rated adequately. I lift my 56 Caribbean in the front by either placing it under the A-frame (be careful of the shock mount) or further back under the frame. In the rear I've placed it under the rear shock mount plate, the axle tube, or the frame, depending on what I want to do. Others will no doubt have other favorite places or precautions. In the rear I don't recommend putting the jack under the support or torque arm, but whatever you do, don't jack it up in the rear so the load arm can come out of the stirrup!!! And ALWAYS also use a jackstand as a safety measure.