Randy, evidently it's not the lightweight connecting rod that I first thought. The clipped corner above and to the right of the hole suggest to me that it mounted in a right-angle corner of a rough casting such as engine or transmission. I'd guess that it's not a transmission oil cooler line bracket as those that I have in front of me are made with dual separated loops to carry each line independently, and are rubber-coated where the line passes thru. Dan Kanter says he's still willing to pursue it further if you could answer some of his questions that I passed on to you by email.

I can remember my Dad complaining about brake fade in our 58 Plymouth wagon when crossing the Rockies, and I've experienced it a few times in the Caribbean as I suspect most folks have driving cars of this vintage in challenging situations. If only it (the Caribbean) had brakes as good as my 1934 Eight; though mechanical but with 4 positions of variable vacuum boost, they are far better brakes (14 inch drums) and have never displayed any fade. Current linings on that car are molded, though the originals might have been woven. And primary and secondary shoes are different Raybestos numbers. Granted the Caribbean is about 400 lbs heavier.

A bit off the subject, but congratulations on carrying the Danube Blue forward to the front parking light area and the little step below it which is visible between the bumper and parking light when assembled. Some will dispute that this should be the middle color (blue) on 3-tone cars (it's the bottom color on 2-tone cars) but the few factory photos and unrepainted original cars show this to be correct though some of the conceptual pre-introduction artwork (not photos) show it otherwise. Some folks paint that little spot Roman Copper (or the bottom color) which seems to follow the color line but yet which the preponderance of evidence says is incorrect. I'm curious, if you have original steel wheels, are they also Danube Blue on the outside (black on the inside)?

Bob, the only thing that pops out at me is what appears to be rubber body-to-frame cushions; rubber is used only on closed cars, converts use steel only - check in the parts book for details.

Your car predates the federal DOT's mandating car safety features to the extent they do today, hence no indications of maximum oversize. Any competent brake shop should be able to make a suggestion as to maximum, I'd think 0.030" on the radius (0.060 on the diameter) is probably a reasonable limit.

The filtering mesh material in the oil bath units is fiberous kapok or other vegetable sourced material. The ethanol in modern gasoline will not have any harmful effect.

Actually Randy, I am curious. I've been through most of my Carib and haven't seen it. How about a little information, how long is it, what is it made from, is the loop flexible? How large is the hole?

Look around thoroughly, in the trunk, under the spare tire, under the seats, you should find 7 more of them as they were used in sets of 8 and are quite rare. It is the short-lived lightweight connecting rod intended to increase horsepower by decreasing needless reciprocating weight in the engine. The strap was glued at the other end and wrapped around the crankshaft journal, and the wrist pin went thru the hole.

Interesting how we got from gas tanks to brakes. I've driven TreadleVac cars since the 60s with no failures. Many of my Packard friends have rebuilt units which are VERY sensitive, capable of launching their occupants out over the windshield (in a convertible). Mine on the other hand is rather insensitive and I occasionally find myself pushing rather hard. It was rebuilt by the best in the business, and replacing wheel cylinders and hoses did not make a difference. It is receiving ample vacuum and the vacuum system is tight. However, replacing the front brake linings made a very significant improvement.

All the things suggested here are good candidates to check out, but the radiator should be at the top of the list. As an engine ages and accumulates miles, the amount of friction it produces gradually reduces due to piston ring wear, etc. At the same time the radiator also looses efficiency but isn't noticed because it's dealing with less and less heat. When you rebuild the engine, you're back to a maximum heat load which the aged radiator can no longer handle. I'd pull the radiator and take it to a competent shop for cleaning and evaluation of its flow rate and overall condition.