Looks great and coming along nicely! For the seals on the threaded studs, I bought a bag of nuts with the rubber seal built-in which is what Packard used for things like this. I think I bought them on Amazon.com although I'm not sure but in any event they were cheap!

I like those distributors because you can always tell if the advance is working or not!

Whether you rechrome yours or find one in gold anodize, I think it would be a matter of your own preference as to which looks better. I doubt any judge would have a list that says your serial number should be one or the other!

I managed to get the second transmission disassembled once I freed up the cluster gear. Lots of PBlaster and working it back and forth finally finally got it freed but then I discovered that the shaft's front roller bearing - the one that is inside the input shaft - was very stuck and no amount of PBlaster seemed to free it. Finally I resorted to a propane torch to heat it up which did the trick.

After only a few hours of work I was exhausted so came back to the house a little earlier than usual. I still need to remove the cluster gear itself and hope that enough oil had remained inside to protect the inner bearing surfaces. Probably not since it was stuck but one can hope!

Everything in the bottom was also covered with the white stuff but most came off when sprayed with carburetor cleaner.

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Don’t forget that for taillights you must use red bulbs and for any cars with amber fronts, you must use amber bulbs. If you use regular white, they will be too bright and make the red lenses look pink!

But yes, this is already being discussed in your earlier thread so no need to repeat it in a second one..

An update and more questions!

The reason I can't get it out is apparently to do with the cluster gear being stuck and now soaking in PBlaster. Presuming I can't free it up and would probably have to remove it anyway, I have the parts to repair the one with broken gears which I probably should have done in the first place.

Question one: what does it entail to replace the cluster gear in the one with broken gears? It seems to me that it requires a cut off shaft to use to keep the needle bearings in place but it's been decades since I've done this and I can't access the online manuals here with my slow WiFi.

Question 1 Answer: there was a special tool used to keep the roller bearings in place which was essentially a short section of the shaft as I had surmised. I don't know if it needs to be only as long as the cluster gear although I would presume no longer than that.

Question two: the reason I didn't do it in the first place is that the parts I have, while NOS, have not been stored well. Is there a way to clean the polished surfaces?

Question three: I can get a transmission in unknown condition from a 1950 Henney which would have the specially hardened gears. However, the Henneys of that era had the 356 with the large input pilot. I also have the proper input so how much of a job is it to replace it by itself?

Question 3 Answer: It is necessary to pull apart the whole transmission or at least to drop the cluster gear in order to replace the input shaft.

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Thank you, Kev, I’ve been using a long pry bar but I know that the rearmost gear can easily get caught on the edge of the hole so I need to be sure I don’t actually break anything! I’ll watch for that and try to be a bit more forceful in the approach. The transmission is questionable anyway but I don’t want to make it worse!

Does anyone have any thoughts about why the rear adapter housing won't budge? On the first transmission, it came out effortlessly to more that a half inch before coming all the way out with a little wiggling (of it, not me!) but this one has moved barely a quarter inch.

Until I can get it apart, I cannot proceed with the work on it! Not that there is nothing else to do but I would like to get this done and over with, or at least to be able to see the cluster gear to confirm that it's okay.

If you see someone "just popping in" and trying immediately to sell a higher priced item from a posting in the Wanted section, be very wary! They are likely scammers. If they send you photos of the parts, search the Internet and chances are you'll find the same photos posted elsewhere, such as on eBay.

On another site I was looking for a steering wheel and someone sent me a message with what looked like a nice one at a reasonable cost. Fortunately I recognized the photo right away from a steering wheel restoration site!

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Looks like either the same one or a very similar one. I bought mine years ago from the UK before they were available here so likely from the same source. However, if the diagram was for the same unit, I see nothing to make it click like mine does.