Several issues could be causing your hot issue.

Do you know your water pump is actually pumping water?(impeller working, bearings good)

What is the percentage of Antifreeze to water? (check with antifreeze tester)

Is you radiator working correctly? (no blocked or bypassed tubes) Some repair shops will bypass spots in the radiator that are leaking. Any abnormally hot/cool spots when you start your cold motor?

Radiator hoses ok? (no sharp bends or kinks)

Heat core working correctly (not plugged/damaged)

Oil pressure, type, and quantity correct (oil reduces heat and friction. If you are down 1 qt it can cause your engine to run 10-20% hotter)

Exhaust ports and exhaust system good? (too much back-pressure will keep heat in the engine)

Water pump belt is the correct belt and is tight.

After you flushed and drained your radiator, how much fluid and distilled water did you back? Was it the same amount as the manual indicated? (Usually you need to flush the system three or four times with out the thermostat and ensure the heater core is getting flushed as well)

Is there a specific way the manufacturers recommends to refill your radiator? (they may do this to reduce air bubbles which would stop coolant from moving thru the engine correctly)

You should also check to ensure your carb is working correctly. Not too lean or rich.

Is your timing correct? (late timing can cause a slight overheat condition, then added to a bent hose, low oil pressure, etc can cause a significant issue)

Finally, verify that you are not adding any fluid and have no leaks. If you add fluid but do not have leaks it could be the head gasket leaking.

Does anyone know where I can buy, borrow, or make the 'special' headlight removal tool to remove the headlight switch?

Thanks for the help.
Gar

Thanks. I see that now. Prior owner took off the inside panels by the rt and lf fenders. I wasn't keen about tearing all of that up. Now I don't have too. Now if I can just find someone to repair the antennas...

I have a 57 Clipper and need to repair the power antennas.

Can anyone tell me how I get access to the power drum units for the antennas? I think it is through the trunk, but I cannot find a picture that shows how i access them.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks. I saw the same thing, but BOTH of my spares are missing the additional openings so I was thinking that the parts list was incorrect.

Interesting issue...after redoing the bleeding a second time and having another mechanic do the same thing ALL by the book. We still came up with the same issue.

We needed to bleed the brakes the same way you would do a Duesenburg.

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions.

Gar

I have a bent rim and was going to replace it with one of my two spare tires/wheels.

After I swapped it out and started to replace the trim rings I notices there is a very slight difference in the wheel/rim and there are two slots that are missing on the spares so the outside trim ring doesn't fit.

It this normal? Seems crazy that Packard would have different wheels for the spares.

Thanks,
Gar

Excellent. That is great. I will try that!

Great article.

Too bad the City of Detroit was never made to perform on their restitution.

What appears to be happening is that after the 1st push of the break pedal, the fluid drains backward into the fluid reservoir. Evidently that is why the break booster was bypassed--- I'm putting a 2lb residual valve in the system to stop the drain back.

Any issues by doing that?