Have you checked the water pump to make sure it is in good order and the caveating. Also do you have the correct style thermostat installed? Those older bellows style ones opened further than some of the modern pellet style ones.

Also have you checked the timing? The incorrect timing can cause a motor to run warm. Lastly a restricted exhaust could also cause it to overheat.

If one looks at the fender design on most 1958 cars, there isn't room to fit a 7" light. The shape of the fender is wider and lower to match the two smaller lamps.

thnx, jack vines

Hi all,
Does anyone have experience of re-greasing the rear springs leaves on the 34,s.
Mine are driving me nuts at the moment, sounds like a badly played kids recorder when you are going along slowly.
On looking at the springs they have metal gaiters which are interlocked together. Is there anyway of taking these apart?
I realise that I might have to remove the springs from the car. Is this a difficult operation?
All help appreciated
Terry

I have a 1935 Packard 120 sedan. When I inhertited it, it had a 1941 motor in it. I did a rebuild on a '35 last year and installed it this winter. When I had the '41 motor in place the temp guage would read hot when pulling long hills. Since I have installed the rebuilt '35 now it reads hot on hills and when the engine is under a load. I sent out the radiator and had it checked, it got a clean bill of health. I have checked the temp of the block with a thermometer and it is equally hot all the way across. I recently installed a 6 volt 16" pusher fan to use during parades and while idling, but I am still hitting 212 degrees on the guage when pulling a hill or while the engine is under a load. Any ideas to help cool this engine or to what might be causing it to run so hot???

Thanks, Albie

Can't help at the moment with documentation on the width but seem to recall reading it was because of linkage tolerances, wear, stretch whatever. Being the LF wheel was closest with none of the above to speak of, and normal weight shift during braking that wheel would see pedal first and grab so it's lining had a smaller surface area.

This excerpt from adjusting info might partially answer the why different pull specs.https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SL-VOL8NO16.pdf

Attach file:

---

  (12.64 KB)

Wouldnt it be great if we could find a piece of Packard Lit. that told us what they were thinking with this lesser width LF lining vrs.the others and why the 650lb pull on the RH vrs 500lb on the other 3.
Please SOMEONE FIND THAT PAPER !!!!!!!!!!
Until then all we have are THEORIES.

Heres my theory:
Rear of the RH spring is attached to the frame via a solid spring hanger. Rear of the LH spring is attached to the Trunion which if u look at its design is a swinging hanger with springs. Stopping forward enursha would put rearward force on both springs. Force on the RH would go rearward against the solid mt hanger. Force on the LH spring rearward against the Trunion, which is moveable vrs the RH hanger, pulling the LH side of the axle back, counterclockwise, with it and thus steering the car to the left. This lesser width lining on the LH brake gives u less friction than the wider RH and the more lbs pull on the RH would compensate, pulling the car to the right and thus straighten the car out.

Whether this steering to the left was/is truly a problem was/is debateable. Im thinking Packard saw this as a problem and was just trying to make great greater.

For whatever its worth this is my theory of the lining and the 650lb pull. But IVE BEEN WRONG BEFORE.

Getting back to my orig. question BRAKE LININGS

The ad copy puzzles me as well. In the first case, $3000 doesn't buy much of a comprehensive engine job, it's barely enough to pay for the parts, certainly not enough to include any machine shop work. Perhaps it was just a ring and valve grind job? And it isn't very apparent where the other $14,000 went.

But if it's you cup of tea, go for it. If the major parts are decent, you could probably recover much of the price by parting it out if you lost interest in restoring it to a presentable condition. But I suspect, looking at the body rust-out, the floors are probably pitiful and I'd even wonder about the frame at the rear. Let the buyer beware, take a GOOD, CAREFUL look before you buy.

Thanks for the correction. Fixed.

I know I'm 10 or 15 years behind on prices but don't think that is really the issue. My take on the whole was the original poster was wondering if there was something wrong with the listing or auction. He mentioned the car had been listed for quite a while, also was on another list, seller didn't respond well, said car was sold yet is still listed but apparently not selling for what seems a very low price. My question is if there is that much money invested, why all the mechanical problems still and why is he offering to sell so low after sinking that much in. Granted, he may just be tired of it and says he needs money but still would have thought he would have tried an auction with a low reserve, not a buy it now that low.

Not trying to start a flame war but some times my fellow Packardians are a little to rough in their thinking. The price guide(Feb 2009) lists this car at between $2500 and $4200. That is the #5 and #4 prices. The car runs, drives, stops, and steers that would lend towards the higher grade. If I had the money I would be jumping on this car post haste. Granted it has problems. However my wifes 55 Patrician was in 10X worse shape(the center(B?) pillar was completly detached from what was left of the rocker panal) and it was on the road and in excellant shape for under $7500. That included brand new rocker panals, 1 rear quarter, and new floors(see pictures attached), this also included a complete interior. Granted the cost was spread over about 7 months, but still it seems that a lot of my peers seem to think that there is no such thing as a restoration under $20,000 and that is just bupkus. You can get a quality job done for inexpensive money you just have to look around and find a shop that is willing to work with you. Granted if you want a 400 point best of show job, you are going to spend $50,000 or better, but then you would not be willing to drive the car. Now keep in mind that I am talking about a cosmetic, up to driver quality restoration, not a body/frame off job. Somebody is going to be real sad that they did not jump on this and no I do not know the guy and am not stumping for him, just expressing an opinion.

Attach file:

---

  (48.33 KB)


  (45.84 KB)


  (43.75 KB)


  (45.25 KB)


  (46.89 KB)


  (55.29 KB)


  (37.42 KB)