If u want the quick start try setting the ignition timing about 3 to 5 degrees more advanced than oem spec. Should give better hi rpm performance and economy too.

I'm not a see-all e-ignition expert. Claims from a few well seasoned automotive men i know have indicated that some piece or part of the e-ignition components require a minimum of 5.2v to work. Also the e-ignition for any type of performance enhancement is a moot point on engines under 8:1 compression.

Of course it begs the question as to why are there not e-ignition components redesigned to trigger at say 2.2 volts for 6v applicatations???? I don't know the answer to that one yet.

e-ignition is not somekind of great modern technological break thru. It is based on something called the Hall effect that was discovered ca. 1900.

Much of the so-called 'modern' technology and aftermarket gadgets and gizmos are mostly just gimmicks relative to economy and performance enhancement. HRM hype at best.

Other than materials and a few manufacturing processes even the modern automobile is little more than just a lite weight compacted version of cars that stemmed out the HP reveloution of 1955.

Or to put it another way:

When it gets to where one can not reach down and turn a window crank or file a set of points then it's probably time to give up driving and take a taxi.

If you bought the car off e-bay in Rockford Il., I know the car. I have been tracking this car and it was originally (6years ago) offered for sale in California on e-bay. The car sold and I beleive went to the state of Oregon. From there again on e-bay sold to person in Illinois. I beleive you are the third Illinois owner. As a side note, Packard did not keep records of production by body style. So if you are told a specific number its usually a best guess. Total production for 1942 Clippers Special and Customs (all body styles) was 19,199.

On an old car I had, I put a connector on it I found at a local part store. If I remember correctly, it was two halves connected with a knob on a threaded rod. The halves had grooves that interlocked to hold it while the knob threaded into the bottom half to hold it together. You would loosen the knob and the top half would come off, disconnecting the battery. I believe the metal was pretty thick. Do you think this would be a good choice for 6v? Right now I just keep my positive terminal loose and pull it off to disconnect the battery.

Would like to relate my experience with Pertronix in my 51 200 I have had for many year and driven 40k+ miles.

Put the Pertronix in last summer and noticed that the car started somewhat faster, usually "ruh", instead of "ruh-ruh"--quite pleased. Gas mileage stayed the same, which could be realisticly expected as I keep the car in decent tune. Performance did seem to be a bit sharper at high speeds, 80-90 mph, but that may have been psychological.

The aggravation came with cold weather: the car would crank over nicely but not fire. Sometimes just as I let off the starter it would fire while the engine was still rolling. This spring I could get no joy when I got the car out of storage even tho she was cranking quite decently. With a 12v jump, she lit on half a turn. This past (chilly)Sunday morning I ended up driving the Kaiser to church as the Pack cranked vigorously with no joy.

So I assume that the Pertonix will not trigger if the voltage falls only a very little below 6v, such as when the starter is churning cold thick oil. My buddy with the 54 Pat has the same experience.

So Sunday afternoon found me putting points back in the car. Ruh ruh vroom. Comments?

Look around for solid core plug wires--not the resistor type. Somehow 6v cars just don't seem to like them at all. Especially the 53-54 which already have a resistor in the rotor.

I use one similar to the Green knob type. Mine is a black knob and much heavier duty than the popular green knob type that are sold nearly everywhere. Bought it at a swap meet many years ago for about 3 bucks. Probably not suitable for batteries that are difficult to access. I like it because it is simple.

If a simple knob type battery disconnect is used always besure to tighten the knob real tite by hand. On one or two occasions mine was not real tite and the engine stopped at low idle speed.

I wouldn't use the key type. Loose the key. corrosion from battery acid etc can cause problems.

On the 51 business coupes, and those from other manufacturers, there was a flat wooden platform covered with a rubber mat to level up the floor over the driveshaft hump, etc. These have often gone missing or rotted. So, the hoops you mention might have been there under that platform as they would have been welded on as a matter of course while the floor pan was fabricated. On the 51s I've seen, what was missing were the two hooks on the front face of the parcel shelf structure that would normally hold up the rear seat backrest.

Thanks Kev! Now I know what to plan for.

It is a Clipper. It appears that there was no back seat however there are the two "hoops" on the floor that would have been part of the seat attachment,is this normal?Seems like these would have been counter to a flat floor for sales cases.If serial number is correct this is car #21 of the 1942 build year.