I wish I had some wear patterns to compare with but since I have had it on the road it would barely have done 500 miles. There seems to be a never ending line of things going wrong. Here is another question. With the front wheels off the ground I tried to pull the wheel to the right by hand rather than using the steering wheel. All that happened was the spring compressed in the rod that connects the steering knuckle and the steering box. Should that happen or is the spring too weak? Would this be the cause of the shudder?

I have borrowed an early alignment machine with two wheel pads, a gauge for checking camber/caster and a toe in rod. There are no instructions but my first measurement seemed to indicate about 2 deg of caster.
Does anyone have any figures for alignment apart from toe in of 1/8" to 1/4" depending on which instruction book or service manual is being read?

Thanks for the advice Owen I will get the wheels checked for balance. Marking them is a good idea.

The shudder is quite violent. Mudguards moving up and down alternatively and the radiator motometer is probably moving 3 to 4 inches sideways as well as the radiator of course.

It is like the whole front chassis is twisting side to side. The only way to stop it is to brake and reduce speed.

Thanks Mal, I have bought the book off E bay. Hopefully it will be useful.
David - the brake linkages are all in good order. I had to get some parts remade. The dust covers were bought from the states and when the retaining spring is released there is a brass cover under the outer steel cover. This looks strange in the photo but it has a layer of grease on it.

Strangely since I have had the hubs off and checked the brakes the car has started to shudder if some uneven road surface is encountered.

It excites a resonance that is only stopped by slowing down. There was some previous shudder but not as severe.
It was so bad that one of the bonnet clips broke off and was lost!

There is a small amount of play in the steering box that needs to be adjusted out, as well as ensuring the wheel bearing clearance is correct.

I checked the toe in and it is about 1/8". The book says that is the right amount with "balloon" tyres.

Would it be sufficient for modern reproduction tyres?

I have added a couple of shots for clarity. The cam does not move when the hub is turned left but moves when turned right. It's only a small amount but it still applies significant brake.Moving the cam carrier bracket has no effect. It appears to be the alignment of the brake shaft from the chassis to the wheel that is the problem. I don't have another similar vehicle to compare it with. I could probably live with the condition but it would be great to have a solution.
(Yes I have some modern shock absorbers fitted until the snubbers are restored.)

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Thanks David for the link.
The brakes there have a different actuator arm than the perrot style "universal" that is on my car.
I think the principle is still the same that there needs to be a certain distance from the centre line of the kingpin to the pivot/cam centre. I am not sure how to achieve that with this style of brake.
The cause seems to be in the hinge action of the universal that causes the cam to turn slightly with the steering action. Even with biasing the cam back slightly on the splines it would still get adjusted out when the cable is adjusted for the correct shoe clearances. Still wondering!

I have a problem with the front brakes on my 1926 333 Packard. If they are adjusted so that there is the required amount of drag etc and then the front wheels are turned to the right the right wheel brake applies enough brake to make it too hard to turn the wheel by hand. If the wheel is returned to the centre or straight ahead position the brake is released. The same happens to the left wheel when the wheels are turned to the left. It appears as though the cam moves when the steering is operated but I wonder if this is inherent or is there a trick to overcome the problem.

The coolant problem is solved. The engine developed a serious noise back in March just as we were about to go to the ferry and then join in the 2015 National Packard Rally at Hawkesbury in Sydney Australia.
I took the head off and found a valve seat insert had come free and had been hammered to death in the cylinder.
The block crack at the 5th cylinder had opened up and that appeared to be the main cause of the |"burping".
I replaced the block with a spare one off an earlier model- it has a 3 3/8"bore. We have had lots of other problems with head gaskets leaking. One roller cam follower decided to loose its roller. Finally the engine is leak free apart from some oil!! and it does not eject any coolant when under load. The smaller bore does not seem to make much difference to the power.

Another update:-
The section of cast iron dividing ridge between the inlet and outlet chambers was partially sealed up with a strip of brass shim. The shim was located with "fingers" that held it onto the ridge as the pump assembly was inserted.
The car was started and run for about 15 mins and all seemed ok. The next day we went for a longer drive which included some hills and even 2nd gear work. The temperature remained in the cool to normal zone of the motometer and there was definitely no boiling or discharge. We intend taking it on the Tasmanian State Vintage Car Rally this weekend. Here's hoping it will continue to perform as it did tonight.

Another development in the cooling saga.
I removed the water pump to check if there was excessive wear around the impeller. It is in reasonably good condition with about 0.013" gap between the back of the impeller plate and the impeller.
The inside of the pump housing in the block is another story.
The ledge where the input section of the pump fits is very badly corroded. It is roughly 4 5/8" ID compared with the pump body of 4 1/2". There is therefore a gap about around the pump allowing water to bypass from the pump discharge back into the inlet. This means the flow through the radiator is reduced.
We plan to make a brass shim insert that will partially fill the gap it will be a bit like a sieve to allow water into the pump inlet but restrict the bypass flow. The fit will not be perfect but it should allow the pump to move the water in the correct direction. Here's hoping!

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Just an update on the cooling problem and thanks to all the comments - they are most welcome.
I tried a flush with CLR which is a phosphoric acid based cleaner for domestic cleaning. It removed a great deal of rusty sediment. I then flushed the motor and did a clean with a normal alkali based cleaner. The next outing in the car produced some boilover but not too severe and only when going up hill.
I also checked the water pump endplay and it is significant. Next job is to refurbish the pump as I suspect it is not working to its capacity.