This head is likely like the one the flackmaster has. The photo of your head shows a 3 bolt distributor base, so that should bolt right on. You can see from the photo the difference in the coolant hose configuration. This should work fine on your engine.

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David (Flackmaster) is the Man! If you need the parts, get them while you can. They aren't making them anymore,

How are the coil and Condenser?
I recall helping a friend replace his fuel pump, blow out the fuel line, and rebuild the carburetor. The entire time during this adventure I told him I recommend replacing the coil, he ignored my advice, well It was the coil. I know as I had the same thing happen to me on my 1201 Eight, sputtered, ran, stopped, I rebuilt the carburetor, same issues. Replaced my coil and was good to go.
In case nothing else fixes it.
Andy

I think any 320 CU head 1932 to 1933 will fit right on. 1935 and 36, 320 CU should also fit but the water inlet for the top radiator hose has a bolt on elbow. If I recall the water jacket holes changed in 1938, or 39 in the blocks, therefore the later cylinder heads will not match the cooling holes in the earlier block. I needed a new cylinder head for my 1935 Eight, my aluminum cylinder head was garbage. I was able to find and purchase what appeared to be a universal replacement cylinder head, as it had had all the water cooling holes for all the different block configurations. I recommend a a cast iron head. I think if you try the usual vendors you will be able to find one. David Flack-Flackmaster on this site may have one, John Ulrich Packard Parts, David Moe Packard Seattle, or Kanter.
Andy

The cork float was completely degraded, it crumbled in my hand. The rivet washer on the inside of the unit had fallen off, I think this may have caused some of the troubles. I cleaned everything, the rheostat was not going anywhere, so I just removed the loose rivet.I added a modern float and now the gauge working great.

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Thank you for all the suggestions. The long wait time to have it rebuilt has me thinking that if I can get a universal unit with the correct OHM range I will just put one of those in, then get mine rebuilt.The thought of having the car down for 8 weeks which is the time required by one vendor I contacted so far, awaiting responses from the others, I don't want the car down that long if avoidable.

I need a new sender for my 1935 Eight 1201 Phaeton. I took the fuel tank out, removed the sender and called Max Merritt, sadly the reproductions they make are not right for my tank. My question is does anyone know how many OHMS the original sender should be. I connected an after market universal sender I had to the fuel gauge and nothing, my original will move the gauge from empty to full but the needle bounced quite a bit and is not very stable. The gauge worked previously with periods of a bouncing needle, then fine. It stopped working completely and this was probably from the cork float that was looking pretty bad when I removed the sender. I want to get the car back together ASAP and an aftermarket universal sender may be the best way to go. I am hoping one of you wise folks knows the maximum ohms required to make this gauge work. My original sender seems to read no higher then 34 ohms with the sender float arm in the empty position
Thx.
Andy

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Bill Hirsch has very nice reproductions.

Thank You, I will check them asap.
Andy

While this topic is active I have a question regarding a brake issue on my 1201, 1935. I have had to lock the brakes up, all 4 wheels locked up and the car stopped in a straight line, a car made a left in front of me. When i brake gradually as I anticipate a stop, perfect, but if I just tap the brakes hard, I hear a clunk from the right front wheel. I have adjusted everything as it should be, and everything appears to be ok with the brake shoes and springs. I am wondering if this could be caused by a worn tie rod end, or king pin, everything seems ok. Any thoughts. Thank You
Andy