Stainless

If that breaker found out what people were paying for Caribbean hulks to restore he would be very regretful...

Regards


John Harley

Guys

When I was little, I practiced reading on old Road & Tracks that my Dad had laying around. Actually I hoarded them as soon as I got my hands on them.

They used to have a calculated data panel in the road test results. One item was piston travel in feet/mile, which should be easily found if you add the stroke into your figuring described above. I think the optimum figure is about 2250-2500 feet per mile.

In case the point wasn't made, there was a calculated wear index expressed as a percentage which I think took into account the piston travel and vehicle weight.

I believe these useful figures were dropped about the time John Bond sold the magazine. I'm fuzzy on the math as I was less than 10 at the time.

These issues came up, I'm sure, because of the number of British cars people were driving in the 50's & 60's with long strokes and wall climbing rear axle ratios.

Figuring out the math on these again would be useful for us fossils driving fossil cars top figure cruising speeds.

Happy Thanksgiving

John Harley

41ParPac

I see him once or twice most weeks. I'm not sure I want to bring it up.....


The paint on the car is obviously a CADILLAC color

Regards


John Harley

33

Get a Motor's manual that covers your year of car. It will have complete rebuild and adjustment instructions with pictures for the carb on your car. You wo';t have to guess

They can be found at flea markets for $10 to $20. Maybe one of your friends has one you can borrow

Regards

John Harley

58L8

Another example of George Christopher having 2 left feet. MacCauley always marked down cars at the end of the run to clear them out of the dealers' lots.


Regards

John Harley

49

of course the best negotiating technique is to stand there and pretend not to hear when he refuses your offer. When you don't react, they meet your price in about a minute or two. I've bought stuff I didn't really want that much this way..

Regards


JH

49

You can check the number, but it is a late 23rd series-Spring of 1950 or later. It has the the 24th series "dog dish" hub caps. They are 1 piece stampings, as opposed to the earlier brass skins over a steel back. The wheels are different too. The earlier wheels have clips riveted on. "The later wheels have ears stamped into them, and the hubcap is forced over them as the cap diameter is too small.

I had a 24th series before my 23rd series, which built in the fall of 49. My car is one of the ones renumbered and sold in 1950. is I noticed this at the Centennial when I saw 23rd series with 24th series hubcaps. Some of the later 23rd series cars also revert back to the square pedal pads. It's late, I'm going to bed, and i can;t make out if the brake pedal is square or oval in your pictures.

These, and a few other changes, were made around March of 1950, though maybe not at the same time

Regards


John Harley

Turbo


The proper terminology for the horn is "Klaxon" anyway. Ahooga or whatever the spelling is a tip off


John Harley

Telephone Man

There is a 23rd series ad proclaiming the fuel economy of junior cars. It is an owner survey and seems to be accurate.

My mileage falls in with what other people say. I actually got 20 mph on a club tour up 9W in New York. We were caravanning pretty tightly and kept the speed no higher than 50. It was going over Bear Mountain though, which is pretty impressive


I see your'e from Carmel. I went to high school at North Central. No hard feelings!


Regards


John Harley

E.R

the 356 has an Autolite reduction gear starter on it too. I thought of it because of the picture of one hanging off a lift that is on the random picture section right now


Regards


John Harley