FWIW, if your band can't get in the groove, it's time to look for some new musicians.

Yes, especially when the vehicle has been sitting for 30 years!

Just recently went through the same revelation. See my post here:
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=8950&post_id=172620#forumpost172620

The seals are still holding up after my last post. A little leakage on one shock, but no puddle on the floor. They don't look pretty, but the car sure rides nice.

Strong magnets could work.

Be sure to request Starphire glass. It is low iron content, and is clear, but more expensive. Mainly used for shower enclosures. All reputable glass shops have it.

I still use my pica rule too!

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About three years ago I bought an oil pan gasket for my '48 327 from a guy who makes them. Very good quality. I lost his info. Does anyone have that vendor's name? I think he was on eBay, but I can't locate him there.

Thanks!

Test drive was night and day. New rears from NAPA should increase improvement. Under $60 for all makes for a pretty good cost:benefit ratio.

I'm driving around much more now that the cooling system is doing its job. As I porpoised down the road I started to consider having the front shocks rebuilt. Apple Hydraulics is asking $215 per shock. Shocking! Soooo... I needed to investigate a little more. Do it myself? Maybe. Google "how to rebuild lever shocks" and I find a link to a forum "olskoolrodz.com" that has a post, "Rebuild your lever shocks for 79 cents." Well, turns out this poster, Reverend Rust, relates a story of how he discovered how to repair his. Add oil.

His conclusion:
KNEE ACTION SHOCK ABSORBERS WORK BETTER WITH FLUID THAN WITHOUT FLUID.

I found a dusty quart of hydraulic jack oil, and with the aid of a tiny plastic funnel and a 7/16" socket, proceeded to apply his fix.

At first, the left shock didn't seem to want much oil, but as I bounced the fender up and down, the bubbles began to appear. It was easy to rock the whole car violently, as it took on a sort of diagonal dancing motion- that was, until the fresh transfusion of oil began to take affect. I kept filling the funnel, and after some serious rockin' and oilin' it got progressively more difficult to budge. Starting to wear myself out, I screwed the filler plug back in place and switched the hood to the other side. Soon, I was worn out, and the car was decidedly stiffer in the front. Time for a test drive.

Wow. What a difference. Just saved $430.

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Oh, yes, they used their high tech tester that prints out a little slip of paper that reads, "BATTERY GOOD." I was skeptical, but had no other way to test it. I did use my hydrometer, and it was on the line between fair and good, but the voltage was still reading 6.32, so I gave NAPA the benefit of the doubt and removed the starter to get it checked out. It probably didn't really need new field coils, but at least now it starts like new, with the new battery.

The lesson I've learned is, careful with battery tenders- they can cause the electrolyte to evaporate in a hot garage, leading to sulfation. You just have to stay on top of them, and keep the cells topped up. Better yet, just drive the car frequently, which I was not, because of the cooling issues. Now that that's fixed, I'm driving more, and when I take it apart for paint and body work, I'll just give it a charge, and remove or disconnect it.

I must add that battery tenders are perfect for gel type batteries, like the Optima I have in my Mustang. I rarely drive it, and the tender has maintained the red top Optima for years.