We got the body back onto the chassis today. Was planning to do it in two weeks but everybody was available to help today and I was not about to pass up the chance.

Its been 3 years, last week, since we pulled the body off. It feels real good to have it looking like a car again.

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So, I finally decided to put a coat of epoxy primer over the rear quarters and outer trunk area. They have been bare metal for 2 or more years now and it feels good to have it coated.

The bottom image is one side of the watts link at the rear end. I left both sides unbolted many moons ago as advised by someone on this site. They said to wait until the weight of the body is on the frame. I hope that right. As you can see the connections are a few inches apart right now so I hope they come together as weight is applied. Any suggestions are appreciated.

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Actually Henry I may have seen your post about the Chevy mounts. I usually go back through your blog before I start something new. However while looking through your blog I found where someone had posted drawings of how the pads & washers are assembled and a parts plate of their locations and that's all I remember because it was important to me at the time.

A few weeks later I was on the phone with Max Merritt's personnel about something else and asked about the body mounts and they quoted $400+. At that point my mind shut down I guess and I placed the order anyway. The body mounts arrived drop shipped from Steel Rubber.

Then I went back to your blog to get those drawings I saw your post about the Chevy mounts again and kicked myself in ass for forgetting it.

I had pretty much ignored the two holes, on the chassis, at the top of the wheel well. One of them is circled below. They were completely filled with rust and dirt and I just never payed any attention to them, until now.

I have been been giving the body mounts a good hard look lately and really was not sure that's what these were for until now. I don't believe I had ever removed the bolts from these two locations as they had rusted away or broke off before I owned it. After cleaning it up I found broken bolts in both locations. Somehow I was able to drill out the bolts and re-thread them both in about 20 minutes. I have no idea how I hit the center of the bolts since there were visible signs of the edges to gauge the center location.

Also discovered that I primed the hood hinges (several post above) and I should not have. They should be bare metal so I am re-blasting those.

I have some friends coming over the weekend of Sept 9-10 to help me get the body back on the frame.

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Our harvest is finally complete and I get a few hours on my more important project each week.

I am finally getting the undercoating applied to the underside of the body. I am using the Rust-o-leum truck bed liner. Using a roller to apply most of it but also using cheap foam brushes to apply in tight spots. Giving two coats to everything.

I am about 3/4 done. Am skipping the area where the fuel tanks goes for now. I'll get that after I get the spare tire well back in place and I can do that after I get the body back onto the frame in a month or two. As you can see, in that area, I am only applying the undercoat where the frame well set and I won't be able to get to it later.

I still have to do the very front of it under the front floor pan but will have that done in the next week two.

I ordered all the rubber body mounts last week. Got some sticker shock from that.

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I saw this and rushed to ebay in hope to snag it but, its a Clipper Hood Ornament, not what I need.

It's almost harvest time here on the farm again. Hopefully I will get some more shop time soon.

I contacted Southwest Packard and got a pair of the exhaust hangers that I needed where the pipes pass through the frame. I had already cleaned up the one I had but theirs was a little different so I used both of those.

On my bracket the "dimple pin" was on the lower portion of the center bracket as shown below. On the two I received the "dimple pin" is in the u-bolt.

Since my new exhaust pipes do not have the dimple at all I'll just replace the u-bolts with newer ones. I have already replaced all the rubber in in the brackets.

I was also hoping to use those nifty pipe clamps through-out the whole systems so that I do not crush the pipes. However, the pipes connect right here where these clamps go and I can't use both. So, it looks like I'll be using the u-bolts in this location. The u-bolts are not pictured here as I have not picked up the new ones yet.

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I had the same issue with my 400. I don't want to buy new tires until its time to drive it.

Tire dealers will almost always sell you their used tires.
The hard part is getting your hands on the right size. I needed 15" and no one had them.

Where I live all the farmers use those old 15" tires on their decades old farm wagons. Even the guys that work at the tire centers have those old wagons so they always get first did's...always.

I finally found a used tire shop that just happened to be close to a pull-a-part and they had a couple sets. They buy them from those parts cars for nothing and resell them to us. I think I spent $125 for 4 tires.

Riki

I'm not 100% sure which one you are talking about.
I have not mounted the resonators yet since I have nothing to mount them to with the body off.

I know the length of the universal exhaust hangers above may be off a little bit. I am going to try and leave as much of the access on top of them that I can so I can make adjustments later on.

I am still trying to find something simple that will work where the pipe passes through the chassis. If I wanted to weld something to the frame I could find lots of options but that's plan B.

Received my Ross Miller rebuilt Bendix T.V. Friday.
I put it in the mail on the 4th and received it back on the 12th. Impressed me.

He found a hole in the aluminium housing and replaced the whole thing. His note said it was the old brake fluid that caused it. It was quite a bit pitting inside.

I'll put it on the shelf for now with the other rebuilt parts. It will probably be winter before I put it on the car.

I gave a lot of thought on whether or not to have the TV rebuilt. A couple years worth of thought actually. In the end I just didn't have the knowledge to convert to a modern master cylinder and feel safe with it. Some of the threads here make it look pretty simple or straight forward but I don't even have the automotive knowledge that some of you do let alone the engineering background.

Talked to KevinAZ about his T.V. briefly while visiting him in January and of course read everything on this site and just decided that this was my best bet. I also didn't want to give up my fresh air vent.

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