I am trying to wrap my head around torque convertor choices for this 700r4 and now my head hurts.

Just watched a Summit Racing video that says

"What we suggest to most customers and sales representatives is they look at the starting arm band of that camshaft and then we will go ahead and select a convertor that is 500 RPM higher in stall range then the starting RPM of the camshaft being used in that engine".

Anyone have a better understanding on this subject or better yet a suggestion on the stall range while I make me a rum drink.

Any help is appreciated.

I studied the 700r4 for a year or more.

There are 2 different sizes of bell housing. One for the largest GM V6 and all GM V8s and the smaller size fits V6 under 3.6 if I recall correctly. Packards need the larger bell housing.

There are at least 5 different versions of the 700r4 over the years, maybe more. The early models (84 t 87) were not all that dependable. Everyone told me to make sure I get an 87 or new model (they were made from 84 to 93). In fact the rebuild kits for the early model years corrects all the old problems and I could have used one of those.

Prices vary wildly like you have seen. If you look at racing forums they say never to use a 700r4 for anything greater then 400 HP. The casing just can't take it. That's why they made turbo 350 and 450.
I pulled mine from a 90 Caprice at the local pull a part for $50. I actually got two and I am glad I did. I had to remove several parts from the other one.

You don't need a computer for the model but you do need to wire it correctly so that the over drive will kick in. That's what I am working on now. There are kits for this but I think I have enough parts between the two I have to make my own.

Craig
I'm sorry, when I said I added the part number I meant that I posted an image of the box and label it came in.

Can I post it in the xref myself. I assumed that was for our more esteemed members.

Howard, do you mean are there different version of the 700r4?

That was an excellent point about the thermostat so I picked one up this week. Had to clean the rim of the water pump off with a dremel so it would sit in the lip but everything goes to together well.

I sent the $95 inlet back to Max's last week for a refund. Still need to pick up some new bolts but this $10 inlet is going to work. I added the NAPA part number if anyone is interested. All I had to do was elongate the holes a little toward the outside edge.

Also, the 700r4 rebuild is almost complete. I bought both a book and a DVD to assist me with the rebuild. Finishing up the modification for the 4th gear torque converter lockup but I feel good about this project so hopefully it will last me awhile.

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Back to the water inlet.
I'm sure that the Dodge inlet that I was told would fit my engine actually did fit that persons engine. As I am sure that the multiple manufacturer make them slightly different. Slotted holes would have been enough to make it bolt right in. Mine did not have slotted holes but I removed enough to make it fit. However the opening between the two is a half inch difference in diameter. I am concerned that there isn't enough contact between the two parts due to the size difference. At the bolt ends there is plenty of contact but on the sides there might be 1/8th of an inch at most of contact between the two. Should I be concerned?

It just so happens that an hour before I was told that the Dodge inlet would work I was on the phone Max's and ordered the $90 inlet from them. I figured that if the Dodge part worked I can return this part to Max's

The Packard part has a good 1/4 inch of contact on the both sides. I'm will probably go ahead and use the part from Max unless someone thinks that 1/8 contact is OK.

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Bendtsen sent me those same pics. I even have one of the plates to go between the carb and the intake (to weld the TV cable connector to).

My concern is the small connection part (shown in the image) that needs to be welded to the carb itself. Bob Bendsten warned me to be very careful with that weld due to its location.

For that reason I am considering going with an Edlebrock 1403 carburetor. With that 1403 all the TV cable connections can be easily purchased and attached without any welding at all. They just bolt right on.

This would allow me to save my original carb to use in the future if I want and give me a few modern convinces with the 1403 like an electric chock and easy adjustments.

However, I am still just toying with the idea.

Just FYI
Bendtsen no longer sells the linkage. We will both need to fabricate it ourselves. Those pictures were a benefit to me as well.

I should be calling about this 56 Pat my self...but I'm not.

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/atd/5579618683.html

I do not have access to a lathe nor have I touched one in 30 years.

Here is a picture that KevinAZ sent to me some time ago of his restoration. Looking it it I don't think that extra inch and half is going to make much difference.

I can cut the hose down if I had to.

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I could but then I lose that lip at the end that helps clamp the hose on.