Thanks guys, my understanding is increasing, perhaps painfully so. Maybe you are interested in the rest of the story.

After a 40 mile, relatively high speed drive with headlights on, and a 3 hour rest, we experienced a dead battery. Battery was fully charged before we left home. This was an AACA cruise and before I knew it, I had about 6 heads under the hood. Strange thing was that a jump would not turn the engine over. Some of the boys surmised a jammed starter or other starter/solenoid issue because power directly to the starter would not turn the engine over. I could not witness that procedure because I was in the car.

Got the car home, put a trickle charger on the battery overnight and it started right up. Battery appears to be holding a charge. In subsequent start ups, I noticed that the ammeter would sometimes show nothing (all the way to the left) and sometimes a "normal" charge. So, I concluded the VR was intermittent. That and the problems other posters have had with VR's. Jason rebuilt the starter and generator a couple of years and perhaps 1500 miles ago, so they were not initially suspect.

Given that the engine started normally several times yesterday, I am dismissing that failed jump start as operator error or a mystery of the universe.

So, I'm attempting to go back to basics here. I'll keep at it and examine the generator, and will check the wires on the ammeter. I noted that the points in the farthest inboard relay were not aligned very well...is that the cut-out relay?


Thanks

Gentlemen,

I'm dealing with a charging issue and have determined that the voltage regulator is working intermittently and new one is on the way.

Now I am wondering about generator performance. After grounding the field terminal, a voltmeter at the battery shows about 6.6 volts at idle with no accessories/lights on. I get about 6.49 volts at very fast idle with accessories on.


Are those voltage numbers a concern?

Thanks,
Mark

Sorry Scott, the body guy bent them somehow.

Scott, might be helpful to know that the rocker panels we got from C2C were absolutely straight, while the originals have a very gentle curve front to back.

Pretty sure I paid $200+ for the pinion and gear set (NOS). Like Howard says, an R11 might be the way to go, especially when the R9A is being replaced.

Am I right in thinking that when it became available, the R11 was used for all models?

Howdy Phil,
I recently searched the galaxy for one of those. I had luck with Sandy at Tucson Packard. Maybe he has another - if you haven't tried him already.
Mark

Pretty sure I got this photo from this site somewhere. Maybe check the photo gallery for others.

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There is a definite dip in the center of my shield. The gap in between top of bumper and shield at the ends is about 3/4" and about
1 5/8 in the middle.

Thanks guys,
I bought an inexpensive gear puller from NAPA and ground the hooks down just far enough to clear. It's out and I am happy.
Mark

I'm attempting to remove the pinion and cage. Serviceman's training manual says that if it does not come off easily (of course mine does not) to use a "puller". Manual warns not to attempt to pry it off.
Problem is, there is not enough clearance to get the puller hooks behind the cage. One could hook the gears, but pretty sure that's not a good idea.
Also thought about making a puller similar to ones others have made for the vibration damper. I probably could get a metal strip behind the cage.
Any other ideas?
Thanks gentlemen,
Mark

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