Thanks...I already did this..taper was less than .005. I cut the ridge, yanked the pistons, honed the cylinders, and hand lapped the valves (this is where I think I messed up), installed new standard rings and bolted it back together. It is the valves for sure. Pitted seats and valves, I just didn't do it well I guess. Maybe springs too. I found a good running 51 eight for $400 nearby so I've decided to swap out the motors. I've invested too much time getting nowhere (compression is maybe 10 lbs. more than when I started). I'm pretty good with engines this one just doesn't like me. This is the second flat head I own, the first is in a 51 Ford F-2 and I resurrected that one with little troubles...I guess the bigger the harder. Thanks for all the advice.
Mark

Well, you were right. the compression ranges from 45-60, mostly 50. It tries hard to start but just doesn't have enough compression to fire...on to a full rebuild, probably should have done this in the first place. Unless, someone has a good running 327 they want to part with!

Yes...I re-torqued the head (twice).
I'm going to do another compression test in the morning. I'll let you know the outcome.

Here's my horror story...I used a copper head gasket and I have never ever used any type of sealant on any head gasket I've ever installed. I cleaned up the valves, installed new rings and dropped on the head. I filled the radiator and then couldn't get to the car to start it for a week. (You know where this is going) I went back to start the car and it was locked up tight. I found water stains leaking from around the new head gasket. I pulled the head (again) and discovered water in the cylinders. After a through cleaning and de-rusting the cylinders (nothing in the oil thank goodness). The engine again turns freely.
I did some research. It turns out that when you install a copper gasket on the engine it is a requirement that sealer is used to eliminate the water leak potential. After gluing down the new gasket I still have not fixed my non start problem...be careful and install the gasket properly. Also, check the head for trueness before installing. Best of luck. I still am beating on my engine after 5 months of not getting this thing to go.
I'm going to start looking for a running 288 or 327 to get this car back on the road...I'm tired of tinkering. Spark, yes. Timing, yes. Compression, yes. Gas yes....I'm stumped.

Really clean the mating surfaces before assembly. Here's my horror story...I used a copper head gasket and I have never ever used any type of sealant on any head gasket I've ever installed. I cleaned up the valves, installed new rings and dropped on the head. I filled the radiator and then couldn't get to the car to start it for a week. (You know where this is going) I went back to start the car and it was locked up tight. I found water stains leaking from around the new head gasket. I pulled the head (again) and discovered water in the cylinders. After a through cleaning and de-rusting the cylinders (nothing in the oil thank goodness) I did some research. It turns out that when you install a copper gasket on the engine it is a requirement that sealer is used to eliminate the water leak potential. After gluing down the new gasket I still have not fixed my non start problem...be careful and install the gasket properly. Also, check the head for trueness before installing. Best of luck. I still am beating on my engine after 5 months of not getting this thing to go.
I'm going to start looking for a running 288 or 327 to get this car back on the road...I'm tired of tinkering. Spark, yes. Timing, yes. Compression, yes. Gas yes....I'm stumped.

I just pulled the pan on my '50 288...a couple of things make it easier. The bolts across the front of the pan sometimes have nuts on them. There should be a threaded plate across the front above the pan but through the years mechanics tossed the plate and used nuts. If you have nuts I suggest yanking the radiator, two hose clamps and 6 bolts and it lifts out ( remove the draing plug before you lift it out as it will hang on the lower air deflector. Once you can get at the nuts from the front things get easier. There are 3 fasteners across the rear of the pan. To get to these you need to pull off the plate covering the flywheel then you have access to the fasteners. They are kind of tough to get out but be patient and don't drop them in the clutch cover...I used a magnet to make sure I didn't mess up. Finally, drop the idler arm from the front suspension on the passenger side of the car, two bolts and the steering drops down easy. Now the pan will slip out.
Good luck.

I just installed one on my 288, it was a 4 piece cork gasket that locked together. Easy install if the engine is out of the car...If it is in the car drop the drag link on the steering setup and be careful of the back 3 fasteners that are covered by the clutch cover plate. My engine was in the car, I used a magnet probe to make sure I didn't drop the bolts or nuts. Take your time and they will slowly wrench out.

I pulled the radiator yesterday and you were right, the 4 bolts have nuts on top. I'll get to pulling the pan today while the weather holds.

Here is a photo of the removed parts waiting for cleanup.

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Another day, another problem...today I drained the oil and prepared to pull the pan...3 of the front 4 bolts seem to have been cross threaded when someone else installed them and although they turn freely, they wont come out. I'll try getting some leverage on them and see if I can get them to budge. Of course, they have to be the ones that are the hardest to get to. Figures.

Nice looking car Blake! Thanks for the encouragement. As I get further into the engine I may still need to send it out for cam work. What are you using for an engine stand?