The 2 front rims weren't too badly pitted, I did have to buff some pits in the bead of one but overall not bad. The valve stem areas were sealed by the rubber seals of the stem assemblies, and there isn't any rust there. Hopefully the rear rims will look as good, both of those are still holding air.

Here is a picture of the valve stems that are on the rims, one is apart to show the layup.

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Agreed, Craig. The corners of the plastic aren't taped together and the top edges aren't sealed against the walls either, so it's pretty porous and there is airflow. The hangar isn't insulated or airtight either, and I'm in and out through the corner flaps a lot too, so I think we'll be safe. I might get a CO detector in there though, that wouldn't be out of line.

We seem to have hit our high temp for today, it's up to -15F outside at 3:30pm. Supposed to be the same tomorrow, so it looks like a good day to bead blast and clean up parts in the main shop at work. Why waste the propane.

It finally got too cold to work on the car in the unheated hangar, even with my little 35K btu propane heater aimed at me it wasn't fun. So I'd been planning to enclose our workspace with plastic to make a heatable area, and my son and I got busy and framed that up. Pretty simple, just high enough because I had to keep it under the wing of the plane. I made the front corner post adjustable so we can drop it down to get the plane in and out, then put it back up when everything is in. This is working great, it's very comfortable now to work, just use some old rugs for laying on the cold concrete.

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The trunk key had been broken off in the lock back when dinosaurs ruled the Earth, so we plotted ways to try to spring the latch through the rear window deck holes. But finally I just drilled out the lock, and we were in! Found the other 3 hubcaps, they are all bent up so I can see why they weren't on the wheels. And a lot more dirt and grain from the mice. No spare or jack though, darn.

The amount of dirt to go along with the mouse condos in the car was pretty daunting. Lots of very fine red dust, from the roads that are graveled using a local baked clay called scoria. Everything was full of that dust, you can see after the rear seatback is out and I scraped some of the dirt off the trunk panel.

The tarpaper on the floor that isn't rotted will come out so that I can grind off the rust and reprime. The tarpaper in the roof after I removed the headliner (in a shower of dirt and mouse droppings) was falling off, and that came out easily.

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I have the seats and door panels stacked and waiting for when we get to the point of rebuilding them. It has the striped broadcloth seats and we aren't sure if that is what we'll go with, but I do have everything for patterns.

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Howard, I am thinking the same thing about the rear drums. I have a friend who is in a local car club, and I'm hoping he knows someone with a puller. Otherwise, I'll be looking to add to my tool collection. I never seem to have enough anyway.

Hans

Decided to make the windows transparent again, if for no other reason than to let light in while working. The side windows cleaned up OK, but the film on the windshield resisted all efforts. Finally I took a razor blade to it and followed up with some carb cleaner, and ta da! A nice clear, if cracked, windshield.

The next order of business was to get the interior out, before someone caught the hantavirus. 50 years of mice and plenty of dust from farm roads before that made everything dirty and rotten. There was carpet in the rear, but it was so dirt-encrusted and mouse fouled I just chucked it, it was pretty much disintegrated. The front floor mat fell apart as it came out too. The seats came out easily, and I ripped the remains of the aftermarket seat covers off to reveal the rotted, mouse peed original seats. Lots of vacuuming and more trash cans emptied.

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Well the drive across ND went fine, got about 14mpg at 60-65 pulling that big hunk of iron. I pulled it into the shop and washed the car as best as we could, the dirt was really thick. The next morning I rustled up some help from work and we pushed the car off the trailer and got it wrestled into my hangar, tucked under the wing of our airplane. Just in time as the snow was coming.

Next step was to get the rotted tires off the front, and once I got them demounted I bead blasted the rims and blew some rattle can paint on them so they wouldn't rust. Looking at the front drums I think a light cut will smooth them up for new pads etc. I plan to replace all the wheel cylinders and master, and brake lines. Everything is pretty rusted and cruddy and brakes aren't a good place to cut corners.

Then it was time to pull the plugs, which had been soaking in Kroil for a day. Once they were out, I emptied a can of Kroil into the cylinders and managed to turn over the engine. Since my brother in law said he had it running about 40 years ago, I of course was never worried. Heck, the oil looks nice and clean. But, I think I'll dig into things a bit before we fire it up anyway.

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Well, yes. That's what I am asking how to do.

In the meantime, I am kind of going around the back way and emailing the pix to myself which allows me to select the file size, then re-copying the smaller resolution pic to the camera roll. I wish you could view properties on this thing like a windows computer so you could see how big the pic file is, but I guess that would make it too complicated to Apple folk to bother with or something. No offense to any Apple devotees here.

I'm sure there's an app for that, but I welcome anyone to let me know which one works well for this. All I have seen so far are cropping apps, not what I want.