Don't have their number handy, but you can look them up. I have been using A & P Bearing in Canoga Park, Ca. for over twenty years and just about always manage to come up with what ever bearing or seal I need. And usually a lot cheaper.
I believe they are on Canoga Ave. If you can prove you are some sort of garage the discount is bigger. Here is where your pest of a brother in law or neighbor comes in handy.
Many times just call with dimensions and they can help
Thanks.

you are going to have to fabricate a tool to remove the jets. I have a machine shop, so all I had to do was get a piece of steel and mill out a rectangular, rounded sides to fit around jets so that they can be unscrewed. When you get the kit you will be able to see what you will need. If no one else can help you, let me know and if I have the time perhaps I can do something for you. Also get some neetsfoot oil (I think that is how to spell it) for the leather on the plunger. You might even be able to salvage the old one. And be careful not to over tighten the fitting where the gas line comes into the carburetor. Very easy to break the bowl there. If the fitting does not want to come out, you just might leave it alone.

PI roster lists a 120 limo 1090 belonging to Dolan and Linda Lawrence of Michigan.

A couple of days ago Turner Classic Movies had the John Garfield movie, Body and Soul. Mid thirties roadster in several scenes in the first fifteen minutes. This movie is available on dvd. Recommended not only for the Packard, but it has great music, boxing, and Garfield.

one front bumper guard missing?

what you really want to know is cfm. How much air is used not the pressure. Bet you are going to want a bigger compressor, cfm, wise soon. Best Todd.
I use a fine silica sand, less expensive,does not remove alot of metal. A nice almost smooth finish, easy to buff up for plating. If wanted. If not just right for primer and then painting. Make sure you don't let your blasted parts sit out in the damp air for more than a few minutes before primering or plating. You will see rust starts almost immediately.
And don't let your sand get moist, it will clog the gun, and you will be tapping it against the cabinet about every thirty seconds.
Good luck, only one thing more tedious than sand blasting, and that is polishing for plating.

As owen said. Been using regular old cork gasket material for about 25 years now and never a problem. Why try to reinvent the wheel. Go to a good parts store and they will have several thicknesses. Buy all the paper gaskets also, and with a small ball pean hammer make all your own gaskets in about five minutes.

Well for the past two months I have had very limited time to play with the overdrive. But, now mostly have it fixed. Let me give me some info. in case it helps someone else. I kept going round and round with this because, there were three problems that needed sorting out. And with just a few minutes every so often I couldn't get it sorted out till just a few days ago. Turns out that the solenoid had a bad contact to turn the light on. The blocking ring had gotten a bit out of alignment, and the solenoid adapter plate had gotten bent.
So what you need to know about the blocking ring is that it should be aligned according to your borg-warner service sheets. But it doesn't quite work the way they say, it takes one person with the rear wheels off the ground, while the other one has his finger (and or home made rounded end rod) in the hole. While one person is turning the wheel forwards and backwards, and you are under moving the lock out lever back and forth for about ten minutes you will all of a sudden feel that the pawl will go in about a 1/2 inch more than it had before. Now with your home made rounded end rod carefully pull the pawl out, making sure not to turn any wheel or the drive shaft, because it may get out of alignment again. Which it did, and then had to align all over again. Bent the plate as flat as I could. And fixed the contact. Now it is working about 90% of the time. Now, occasionally while driving at high speed the red light may come on, and once it came out of overdrive. So may still be the slightly bent adapter plate, governor, relay, or possible the solenoid is a bit weak. But, I don't think the overdrive needs rebuilding. So anybody that can give any guidance from here would be appreciated. And does anyone have an extra adapter plate for sale. Thanks

Just hope Pete doesn't give us a lecture on the quality of the Winchell's vs. the randy's donuts. After all he was there. Are prewar donuts better than post war donuts.

Was it originally a Winchell's Donuts?