taxman - Bypass type oil filters need to have a restriction on the inlet side. The restriction can be either built into the filter's canister or with a fitting in the line that connects the engine's output to the filter's input. I think the size of the filter's canister is not that important as the filter is only processing partial oil flow. Others may have different opinion on this.

I am using 15W-40 Classic Car Motor Oil in my 1937 Six Convertible Coupe and 1947 Clipper Custom. It is made by D-A Lubricant Company, Inc. and sold through the Indiana Region of the Classic Car Club of America. I like it for the multiple viscosity and zinc content features. It has worked well for me, and I recommend it.

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The Purolator oil filter accessory pictured in the brochure appears to be one that has its inlet on the bottom and the outlet on the top. Look at Big Kev's blog and his oil filter set up. More common is to have the inlet on the top part of the filter and the outlet on the bottom.

I saw an oil filter installation on a 120B at Salado in March. The return line was routed around the front of the engine (like the one pictured) and was plumbed to the front lifter cover. Where the filtered oil is returned to the engine seems to vary. Some do it through the lifter cover and some do it (in a less elegant way) through the oil fill tube.

What is important to watch for is where the filter inlet is located, and to be sure there is a restriction in the inlet side so as to bleed off a small portion of the oil that is being bypassed for filtering. The restriction may be in the tubing fittings or in the filter assembly.

There is a different outlet plumbing arrangement for hydraulic and mechanical lifter engines.

Then there is the full flow oil filter installation that can be seen on Mal's "Wade's Workshop" blog.

The engine number for your 1952 300 should be in the range of K400000 series. The 400 engine number are in the K6000000 series. I hope you find a K6xxxxx number.

41ParPac, I mounted the switch in the engine compartment for quick access, just in case . . . The under the seat was hidden and difficult to get to.

I had a '39 Cadillac Sixty Special several years ago. If I recall correctly, the battery was mounted in the engine compartment on the passenger side down low next to the firewall. I may be mistaken about the specifics but it was in the engine compartment. It was positive grounded. That is a car that should have had a cut-off switch - original wiring!

41ParPac, thanks to you and the others for the compliments. It's nice when a job comes together. You mentioned that you use a disconnect nob on the negative ground post of your Clipper. Do you mean the positive ground post, or did you do something on your Clipper's electrical system to change it to negative ground? Just curious.

Some time back there was a forum exchange about the safety benefits of installing battery cut-off switches in our Packard motor cars. Following-up on this I ordered two Cole Hersee 2484-09 switches from elecDirect.com on their online site. A switch for each of my Packards, a '37 Six and a '47 Clipper. The switches cost about $30US each.

I first installed the cut-off switch on the '37. I placed it in back of the battery on the floor pan under the seat. In this installation I switched the ground (positive) cable. This is the preferred way for electrical safety. However, I found the switch location under the seat to be inconvenient, and started looking for a location in the engine compartment.

I determined that a location on the steering column near the starter would be the best place. I fabricated a flat mounting bracket out of 1 1/4" wide x 1/8" thick steel. I attached the switch to the bracket, the bracket to a 1 1/2" exhaust pipe clamp, and the whole assembly on the steering column. The starter (negative) cable was connected to one terminal of the switch. A 14" battery cable with 3/8" opening terminals on each end was connected from the switch to the starter solenoid.

I am pleased with the results. The switch is easy to access, the appearance is acceptable. I painted the switch, bracket, and clamp black so as to help it hide in plain sight. However, switching the hot cable is not the preferred electrical safety way, but the installation is safely mounted.

Following this are a series of photos showing the switch mocked-up on a piece of tubing on top of my work bench, a photo of the starter area before the switch was installed, and a photo showing the completed switch installation.

I have both of my Packards in the house-attached garage, and feel better knowing that the possibility of an electrical fire has been greatly reduced.

Next, I will install a switch on the Clipper. This should be an easier job as the battery is under the hood. Meanwhile, the ground strap is disconnected.

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Don, following this are three photos of the roof mounted rotary antenna on my 1947 Custom Super Clipper Touring Sedan (2106 2122). Please let me know if I can provide you with any more information on this.I hope these photos help.

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Mal, thanks a bunch for the photos. John

I saw that episode too. The DIY network is re-running their old shows showing auto restoration projects. The Packard series is really a good one as Mark Lambert(?) shows many "tricks of the trade" in his restoration project. I wished I would have known this was being re-run so as to watch all the episodes again.