Get the generator rebuilt, get a new VR, new battery, get some seat covers, and the rest is history. Go cruze.
If you nit pick it, you might as well sell it and apt to let it go cheap.

I don't think it uncommon with today's ethanol gas that people have been observing bubbling in the fuel bowls. Gasoline composition changed quite a bit since '49. I've compared specifications in the past, maybe on here(?). Plenty of info on effects of ethanol on boiling curve. But has to be fairly hot to do that.
First I'd check/tighten the fittings to make sure no air bleed, and try non-ethanol gas, if available in your area.
Never hurts to isolate carb(s) from a manifold such as this which has both intake/exhaust temperatures. I just went through this precautionary exercise on my modified Cad which has a central runner for exhaust based on erroneous understanding of the day.
My '49 the fuel bowl is immediately forward of the carb. And there's wide open spaces, so I didn't observe any issue with it idling for long periods, but others complain. It idles at ~400 rpm.
It's imperative to make sure all the inner panels are installed to direct the air flow through the radiator so the fan does it's job. Autos are air side controlling.
You don't mention if you did anything to the radiator, perhaps it's in need of attention. A infrared camera scan will tell.
Ernie is correct, no need for high test in a low compression motor. I'd argue the mystery oil add but I like to argue. Why would anyone use anything that's a "mystery" ie, not knowing what it is, is a mystery to me... I'm not as trusting.

Gave no info on what device you're using so I'd contact the manufacturer before confirming anything.
Not the first time this has been done.

It's common to run different voltages in the same cabinet, with proper shielding, so I don't see any issue so long as you run a separate ground wire for the 12V devices* and isolate them through the mounting hardware from the car ground. Watch the routing so no signal distortion. May need some plastic hardware; washers and fasteners, etc.
*- There's no circuit interference, if you're not connected to the 6V circuits. You can power with the normal +- protocol, the car won't know any different. Very little power draw here.
The digital camera is probably running on some voltage other than 12V and just powering a transformer with it. I have one in my boat engine cowling that transmits to the truck so I can see behind. It's powered off boat 12V but runs off a transformer and has a WIFI transmitter.

Since it works from the switch, then the horn ring is not getting proper connection.

A testament to how we've changed as a people since these vehicles were built.
Rarely, did you have constant radio signal on a long trip and when the signal died, you cranked the dial for another and if none played some sort of thinking game. (much like early analog cell phone service)
Today, we can't even go to the bathroom with our i-something and demand 5G! Just so we can moan about something on anti-social media. Any wonder this country is upside down? No simplicity. No peace and quiet... 24/7 biased commentary about minutia. No speed bumps down memory lane.

Assess how bad the "leak" is first, nuisance drip on the driveway(put a pan* under it) or a quart a week and then decide if it's worth it. "Sign of originality".
If not done right, it'll still leak. So I'd get someone that done a bunch of them, if available.
I had a guy on another brand do one and he botched it badly. Rope seals are not common except in industry. They have to be overlapped and cut properly. There's a cutter for the rope. What you don't want is a squared off or ragged edge to act as a channel.
There's info on the web you can search on this subject. I'm "ailing/om meds" and just don't have links handy.

* - I go to the big box and get one the cheap 26" water heater catch pans, plug the drain, and fill with oil dry.

Many times. It was on again last week(movies). I dont remember the date of the film but it's listed if you watch close. So can not be older than that since it takes months to produce the film.
Nothing like a good RAFT movie, except one with Bogey.
I think it's a "Victoria" since it has the winged hood ornament.

Sure looks 22 to me. That painted middle bumper is the tell.

Very common and been discussed here before a few times. I had to disassemble the '49s column to get the shifting back.
The same hole that is for oil is the source of water intrusion. A poor design.
You can disconnect the levers at the joints and check to make sure not in the trans.

I don't see anything unusual here. Post-war things were just getting back to normal. Cars sales were sporadic and didn't take off til the '50s but that was a little late for P.
They sold '48 leftovers and '49 leftovers as the following year models, '49,'50 respectively. The 23 series '49s didn't come out til mid '49 so almost bound to have been left overs. Titles were made by states, not uniform.
My opinion one of the things P did that didn't help them in the market but the economic realities of the time.
They ordered bodies by lots from Briggs and when they were consumed they changed models.
Common in that period. For instance, look at a '46 and '47 Ford front end and the only thing that changes is the turn signal lights.
Read the book(Neal?) covering that period.