Thanks Brian, that's good to know. Re the 'starter switch', what does this look like? I can't say I've noticed any difference between the 1st rebuilt I bought (a manual-choke Carter WA-1, not sure of the #-designation) and the 530S, other than the latter is automatic choke. Is the switch obvious or internal?? Chris.

I agree, John - I think they're just to keep the caps on, so the needle bearings don't 'get away' and end up all over the place. When I put my drive shaft back in, I had quite a time getting the U-joint in place, with the caps on, and then positioning the saddles so as to be able to get the nuts started. There are no grease zerks on my U-joints, (any on yours?) which I found odd, so I loaded up the cups with chassis grease and that HELPED keep the caps in place but wasn't 'goof-proof'. A couple of times, I had caps fall off and sometimes the needle bearings did some moving around, even came out. Not a fun task, crawling around on the floor by one's self - that's for sure. Car on a hoist with 2 guys, it would be pretty easy, but how many of us have THAT luxury?!?! Chris.

Interesting stuff, Leeedy. I know it's a bit off 'Packard-topic' but this thread IS about 'Packard' bikes, and they're not REALLY 'Packard'-related, so hope it's okay if I get a little bit further 'off-topic'. Just as a tidbit sidebar, I mentioned that my bike was a single-speed as opposed to a 3-speed, which was what was available at the time, before the 5/10/18 speed gear-cluster versions that hit the market shortly after. Most CCM 3-speeds had a Sturmey Archer gear-changer, that we all remember as having that little chain coming out of the centre of the hub and being activated by a thumb lever on the handle bars. They were considerably more expensive than CCM's single speed and clearly out of my price bracket in the early 60's. When I say my bike was a 'top-of-the-line' CCM, I should probably rephrase that as saying it was the most expensive single speed on the floor at my home-town hardware store. There were several and I remember riding away on MY new 'steed' thinking I had the world on a string. It came with a very cool motorcycle like kickstand and a spring-loaded air pump that engaged in a couple of point brackets under the main cross bar. And the reason I mention the 3-speed hub is because there was an old English fellow who lived in town named Archer McCrumb. He said his Mom's maiden name was 'Archer' and was the related (I forget just how) to James Archer of Sturmey-Archer. I recall him talking about the company having some pre-war motorcycle pedigree, but said his relative James, was in on the design and development of the famous 3-speed bicycle hub. Knowing you lived in Canada at some point, thought that might be of some interest. I have no 'proof' of the claim, other than his story, but no real reason to doubt it either. You seem to be pretty up on your bicycle history; know anything about it?? I know it was quite common back in the day to 'preserve' a woman's maiden name in the naming of the children of a marriage. Cool bit of trivia, eh? (as we Canadians so love to say! LOL) Chris.

Hi Ramcuda,

I can't speak to whether the 385S will work on your car; I CAN say the 530S is what I have on my '39 Six (245 CID) and it seems to work fine. It's what the carb exchange place recommended to me when I gave them my year, make & model. It does sound like the 477S is MORE correct. Even if you can find a good core and get a rebuild kit and either do it yourself or get somebody to do it for you. I'm fighting with my carb right now as it is dripping gas out the bottom of the bowl and I've been investigating rebuild outfits and kits; if I come up with anything I think would help, I'll let you know. Chris.

Hi Leeedy,
That's an expensive bike for the time!! I remember buying my first bike some 30 years after that, a top-of-the-line CCM single speed and it was $24.99.
I'd take one of those AGFA Box Cameras down in the corner for a buck/nineteen though. Remember those? They took 120 film that came on a wooden spool, with a great big negative that you could just contact-print... the good old days! Chris.

'Ernie in Arizona' always has sage advice. I always liked his
post to someone in your shoes, just 'learning' their 'new' car:
"Good afternoon...It often takes a good few trips around the block to get a 'New' Packard sorted out so that you trust the old girl...they really do want to please you...you just have to listen and observe and make the necessary changes and repairs one at a time until you are happy with her and she with you! Ernie in Arizona"

Hi Tsherry,

This is a task I know I will someday tackle on my car. Thanks for posting this excellent step-by-step... great pictures, easy to follow narration; a real help to anyone contemplating the job. Look forward to your next installment. Chris.

Joe & Mike (Tobs) That's a good idea, I'm going to try and make that a habit. Chris.

Great post, Steve.
Chris.

Hi USMC1936,

Dave's (Owen_Dyneto) last comment is likely what you're experiencing. There is no synchro in 1st or rev. in these transmissions, so stopped OR moving, you must wait a couple of secs after the clutch pedal is depressed to let the gears stop spinning and allow a grind-free shift. If the car is stopped and the transmission is in neutral, clutch pedal out, the gears are turning the same as if you were moving, in gear at that idle speed. Once you disengage the clutch (push the pedal in) the tranny internals come to a halt quite quickly, you just have to wait for them. The correct weight and amount of oil in the gearcase is also a contributing factor and worth checking as suggested. Chris.