You might try EGGE, they had the bypass spring for my 356 oil pump.

Recently did a valve job on my 1940 - 180 with the 356 engine. Have the original engine which also has the slot type valves and keepers. Had to rotate the cupped keeper washes so the keepers would fit up into the slot in the bottom of the washers. The valves had been replaced previously and their stem diameter was larger than the factory spec valves, so be sure to check your valve guides for correct clearance if you replace any valves.

Hi Tim, I have to ask, I assume the reason for soaking the strainer assembly for a month in gasoline is to dissolve any inside sludge and to see if the float chamber is sealed? Also, can't find the "hole" in the suction screen. The lower side and bottom does, however, have four elongated openings exposing the fine mesh screen. I wonder if this is the original part? This one is made by Taylor Sales and Engineering in Elkhart Indiana, model #13692339-1890964. Of course, this doesn't match the part # in the Packard Parts List manual. Hope I can find a "floating" replacement or will have to take suction from the bottom and change the oil very often (engine does have a bypass filter). It looks like there was a repair made as there is a large glob of solder on the top near the center?
Bill

Hi Tim, thanks. After reading your response I realized how obvious this should have been, a floating pick up is ideal for preventing settled solids (sludge) from entering the oiling ducts. Will look for another pick up assembly. Thanks again.
Bill

Have been trying to clean out oil suction screen assembly. Assembly seems way to heavy for its size so have soaking to get out and possible sludge which may be trapped inside. First used carburetor cleaner then diesel fuel. At least what's ever inside has broken loose as I can hear it slosh around when I shake the assembly. but still can't get it out. Can't disassemble to clean as screen is crimped into body all the way around and the protective metal cover that's over the screen is soldered on. Any ideas?
Thanks

Tim, thanks again for the information. I believe the problem with #6 cylinder started with a leaking head gasket at #6 cylinder (white exhaust and low compression). The two oil passages in the # 6 rod checked out clear. I was concerned about just replacing the head gasket and not checking the head. It was cut .013" to make it true. The mistake I made was not checking the head clearance before re installing and bent #6 exhaust valve. Have sense found out via a copy of the Packard parts manual that two head gaskets were available (not counting the "extra thick" export gasket). The replacement gasket I used was the .060" not the .091", which would have worked. Since then I have another head (uncut) and have done a valve an guide job. Was able to stat engine one time after valve job then engine wouldn't restart. Did air leak down test and found all cylinders had 60% leakage into crankcase, no air lose at tail pipe or carburetor. Added 2oz oil and recheck showed good compression again. Pulled pistons and found rings collapsed into groves and very difficult to get out, lots of black carbon. Rings are now out. Rod bearing were previously replaced with .001" over size when I assume the.020" pistons and hardened seats were also installed. It also appears that over sized pins were installed at that time as the wrist pin bushings look quite worn. That's the whole story.

Hi Tim, thanks, will follow through and contact AGGE for a quote. They rebuilt the oil pump for this engine and did a good job. I guess fitting the pins, bushing with the pistons is more than a replacement parts job, it requires some actual machining. For future reference, where is Terril located?
Bill

Tim, yes, this does help. One piston clearly "rocks" on the wrist pin. Removed pin and it measures .878" which I believe is .003"over size. This was done I assume when the engine was rebuilt in the past. The pistons are not original and are .020" over size. The question I have for the "rocking" wrist pin is, do I try and find a .006" over size wrist pin and if I do will heating the piston in hot water allow the pin to fit. Or do I have install new bushing and have it reamed to fit the current .003" over pin? How are bushings removed?
Thanks, Bill

1940 - 356 engine ring job

Postby Bill Butterworth ? Fri Aug 16, 2013 9:23 am
In the process of doing a ring job, what is the clearance spec. between the pistons and cylinder wall? Also, what is the allowable "rocking motion", if any, for the wrist pins? What is the best procedure for removing and then replacing the pins? Should I replace the pins or the bushing?
Thanks, Bill

Yes, the heat riser valve is free and functions properly. As am unable to start engine second time after valve job, will have to remove manifolds and check for crack. Had manifolds resurfaced as part of valve job so not expecting any problems.
Thanks