Hi Oraya, Given that the car has sat dormant for 40 years AND has those compression #'s, I'd be strongly leaning towards the latter suggestion!! Chris.

Hi Ken, You could try harnessesunlimited.com; they show a pretty good offering of Packard harness options. I haven't used them or seen their product - just going on what I came up with online, looking for my '39. Others on the site will probably have more 'hands-on' experience and therefore, more credible and 'verified' suggestions. I CAN say that the price of about $750 for the assembly for my car is the REASON I haven't seen their product first-hand; it's on my list, just haven't penciled it into the budget quite yet! LOL. Chris

Good info, thanks Brian. Any idea where a guy can get a rebuilt 477S up here? Chris

Hi WauhopM,

I am presuming your are referencing an electric pump as an auxiliary to your engine diaphragm pump? Your NAPA store sells generic 6 volt electric pumps and a 'medium priced' unit should do the trick. In as much as electric fuel pumps push better than they pull, it should be mounted as near the fuel tank as is reasonably possible, using a good, heavy grade of wire, and an under-dash toggle allows it to be activated as required. Chris

My '39 Junior car has a Carter WA-1 as the 'brand of record' and I believe it is a decent and reliable carb. Easy to purchase rebuilds and kits as well. Chris.

Agreed, Don - a couple of those nuts are challenging to get at and even get a box-end on! 'Grunt-and-a-half' torque specs probably apply here. I found mine stopped needing additional tightening after about three chases. Chris.

Wow, that is one pretty car!!! Chris

Hi Ramcuda,
Welcome to Packard Info. I just completed this on my car a few months ago. The biggest single issue with R&Ring the Exhaust & Intake manifolds is taking care not to break anything! The castings are very old, have been through countless heat cycles and are very brittle. The second most important issue is, of course, to get a good seal. The two manifolds are bolted together and there is a bit of play in their alignment as the intake to exhaust nuts are tightened down. Using a straight edge across the face of both E&I head-to-manifold ports allows for proper positioning prior to attachment to the head. I too looked for torque specs on the stud nuts but couldn't come up with anything concrete. Maybe others will weigh in here with some numbers for you. What I found was they needed re-tightening several times after initial installation as, with the heat they are exposed to, and with some natural gasket compression, I found they went from quite snug to needing 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn in the first few miles. On my car, the nuts were brass and I believe this is correct/original and a very uniform tightening sequence, going just a bit at a time on each nut until they are all tight, is the best way to avoid breakage. Remember: old brittle castings, extreme care required! The six exhaust manifold is a difficult to find part, and is not cheap!! Good luck, Chris P.S. Ramcuda, it is also a great time to check out your heat riser valve, make sure it is nice and free and the spring is there, installed correctly and is functioning. (see pic)

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Yes, Thank you Big Kev for your time, talents and effort to get us 'back up'. It's a great resource - much appreciated by all users. I echo Steve's remark that we don't voice our appreciation often enough! Chris

Joe, sorry, Gerd's picture was not there at the bottom of page '2' the last time I looked and I mistook your reply for a cryptic response to my post. My mistake. Chris