Hi JT120, thanks - yes it does; the 55 is a slightly bigger globe, uses nearly twice the power and IS significantly brighter. The 51's go in the gauge clusters while the 55's are for the speedo and clock backlighting. (and the map lights) I bought a box of each and think I will try putting it all back together with the correct bulbs and if I am still unhappy with the lighting in the oil/water and gas/ammeter gauge clusters, I can try a 55 in those too. As things stand, I believe I have gotten the dimmer switch to work properly and it SEEMS to take the lights up to quite a nice, bright intensity. I'll report back my findings once I have it all hooked up and working again. Thanks for weighing in. Happy New Year to you! Chris.

John, further to our off-site emails, here are a couple of pics of my front end as it came off. I had my rebuilt engine completely assembled but did not run it until after the clip was back on. I reinstalled it with the rad in place and was just careful as I lifted the assembly back onto the car, to make sure the fan didn't come in contact with the rad. Like I suggested, putting wood blocks under the fronts of the running boards so the fenders have something to sit on is a good idea, otherwise they want to sag down and put unwanted strain on the fenders themselves and the rad shell, etc. It took me maybe 10 minutes to place the clip back on the car, then less than an hour to reinstall all the bolts and hardware and put the hood back on; then another hour or so getting the wiring hooked back up. I only quote the times to illustrate it is a fairly simple and quite straightforward process, even for a non-mechanic type like myself! LOL

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Hi Guy Gennaro,
Welcome to Packard Info. Re your car/questions, I sure agree with John (PTV) that some careful mic'ing & measuring is in order. With no cylinder ridge, you may well have had some machining done prior to your disassembly of the engine. That may help when it comes to 'the list' of things that you end up having to do. Re the fuel pump, rebuilts are available through our 'standard' Packard vendors; I would give Kanter or Max Merritt a call and they can help or direct you. Those with way more knowledge and experience than I, will no doubt weigh in with good advice. My mantra with the approach on all this is: 'all you have to know is what you DON'T KNOW' and when you get to that point, get some help. The other maxim through all this 'old car stuff' (at least what I've figured out) is the right way is usually the harder and more expensive route, but in the long run - well worth it. Halfway jobs, 'Band-aids' and 'carnival fixes' CAN work for a time, but doing it right the first time around generally gives a longer-lasting and more reliable result. Good luck, Chris.

The lights - they are aglow! Thanks Big Kev, and best of the season to you & yours... Hope the donations keep coming in. The site is a great resource and a centre for camaraderie and, at times, some rousing exchanges. Giving back by tossing a small donation in the 'site sock' is sure an easy and meaningful way of saying thanks to those who give selflessly of their time, talent and efforts to keep it going! (AND free!) Chris

I used to go ocean fishing with this guy in a fair-sized boat that had a sign in the cabin that said 'This boat doesn't run on Thank Yous'.... probably applicable here...

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so did I... next.

To all the fine folks out there in Pacakardland - allow me to take this opportunity to wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and all the best for the Holiday season and on into the New Year. Not enough can be said for all the advice, assistance and encouragement that gets passed along on P.I., but to all those regular posters and contributors, a huge Thank You is due. I hope everyone has a great holiday with family and loved ones, too much to eat, and gets what they hope for, under the tree... Best regards, Chris Goodfellow.

Thanks Don, and yes, you're right (of course!) on both counts: 1938 handle and yes, Phillips head on the screw; you can see it clearly in my 3rd pic... Chris.

Hi Duncan Micheal - the '39 Six is a zero pressure system and while I agree with your advice that a barb or knurl at the end of the stub is a good idea, as long as the rubber is a good fit to the metal and is well clamped, one could get away with just straight ends. Once clamped and 'memory molded' to the metal stub, the rubber should 'stick' quite well. Chris

Hi Dan W - welcome to Packard Info. Further to Don's post, here are a couple more pics that show the screw close-up. Also, there is a 'shake-proof' washer on the machine screw that should be there to keep it from coming loose. A drop of Locktite may even be a good idea. I must have been doing these while Don was answering you!! LOL
Chris.

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