I'd be interested to see some dyno results on this set-up to verify the HP, but don't know if that's in the program?

The HP curve from that can be used to determine the gearing, but you don't mention the trans, w/ or w.o OD?
It's possible to calculate the engine rpms at 80, with that gear info if you also know the tire size.
I don't see much issue with rpm with that rear end ratio.
The L8 327 is a stroked 288, so more rod travel, so would benefit from lighter/stronger pistons. These are fairly low (~8:1?)compression to begin with, so I wouldn't worry about the head issues. You won't see pre-ignition or detonation until much higher and partly an octane issue. Pressurizing changes the charge density affecting ignition also. So you have to check your "what to use for spark" plan too. That weak 6V probably won't cut it. Probably have to play with the timing which is dyno work. Whichever head is the stronger/best shape of the two is best. You can flow test, but not sure that's in scope either? There were some aluminum after market back in the day but scarce today. There's a few "P" L8s running around with turbos, but first I'm hearing with SC-er. The Frod flattie V8 hotrod guys are way ahead in this dept. I've always thought the inline siamese flatheads were not as good candidates for charging as the head strength/sealing comes into play which is not so much for the flat V configuration. What I remember from mechanical engineering calcs for bolting of flats. aka, why pressure vessels are not cubes.

Boost also increases the heat load, so that may need attention. (you double displacement for every 15 lbs boost) Stock water pump/radiator or aftermarket?

Sorry, interested, but I just don't get excited about making 250 Hp from such a heavy(800+#) 5.4l motor. An OHV straight six will do that at much less weight and many V4s. eg; 3.6 l V6 (naturally aspirated) in my new Cad is 310. The new 2.0 l V4 bi-turbo is ~240 and probably fits in your shirt pocket... So you pay a big price for the old school look. Good luck and keep us posted.

Been a while.
Each brain will rationalize something to explain observations to itself. How do you design an experiment to replicate something that no one really knows what happened? Soft copper is also not a recommended fuel line material normally. I hope we agree that what he had was no longer "gasoline".
Copper oxides aren't soluble in gas normally, certainly not enough to cause color. They may have some in ethanol(?), but EtOH is soluble in the gas until it takes on enough water to partition aka phase separate. There's also other stuff in there they don't disclose. Wet ethanol gas is corrosive to a degree as I showed in the study summary.
I looked at the jars tonight and it's been around 30-50ish in the garage lately and the ethanol ones are still developing darker color, yellow brown, and some precipitate. I was surprised to see some in the reference, but it disappeared on swirling. (artifact of temperature)
The ethanol free look the same, nice light yellow green color and clear. So there's definitely issues with ethanol gas and storage - even closed in glass, but the guy thought it might be old MBTE oxygenated gas in one of his later posts. I just didn't have any to test.
In order to make some sort of copper organo complex it is possible but I think it would need some acid component to ionize the copper oxide and the Cu oxidation state would determine the color. Not many of them are bright green. In my experience, bright green is more indicative of nickel, but let's not go there. It would just take a quick UV/vis and IR analysis of the green gas to tell more - info we don't have. I'm retired out of the lab for 10+ years now - no access either.
I urge anyone to try their own tests if they think they know more.
It's merely a passive exercise for me in visualizing what I had gleaned from the literature rather than a rigorous test. Much hype and mythology in this subject. Like I surmised early on, it's a slow process. So for the most part, if you use it quickly, not much issue, but they don't/can't formulate for you to store in every possible manner in your classic for long periods and remain perfectly like new... I doubt advertised stabilizer additives would do much, but what do I know? I bought some once decades ago for one of my boats that was sitting awaiting a buyer, and I think it's still on the shelf and the bottle has kinda shrunk. i need to throw it out.

I'll have to go look later.
But I'm thinking the (pictured) left edge cements to the metal with the concave to the rear but someone will correct me, I'm sure.
You can always call Steele and ask.

Don't worry about the mileage at all. Most don't require mileage or titles on pre- '64 or mileage now >10 years.
You can always apply for a new title and most states only require a police or DMV inspection. A few states are sticklers, but I doubt you'll have much issue, if you have a clean bill of sale. Each state will have a different number protocol. It's not been federalized to that extent.
Where I live, I had to trailer the car over for the number inspection. Where I used to live the cops came to my house, so call your DMV/visit website first. They'll tell you your options.

Did your neighbor raise chickens?

Electricity travels path of least resistance.
I haven't had time to research this further as I came up empty quick search, as the black and white document info given was mostly pre-war (18-21 series) vs 23. Automotive changed fast after WW2. Not saying incorrect, uncertainty with conflicting evidence, looking for further conclusive proof. I'd like to know.
If the dist was put on and then the motor was painted, it would be block color at some height or evidence of mask. If it was added after paint, it would be the finish as received from manufacturer. One for the period manufacturing historians.

HINT: One of the "nice" features of other car "clubs" is they have "authenicity" manuals with this type info suitable for judging the various years.

I must have bad luck, because the Packard Delco and the Delco on my Cad isn't painted either? Both are original.

I'd say the dist.housing is normally unpainted. They need to make electrical contact.
This is my '49 w/ Delco and number is correct/low miles.
It's pushed up against the wall now, so pictures are not great.

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Pictures as of today.
non-ethanol: Std on rt., copper left
std has developed a slight greenish tint and maybe darker.
copper made darker.
Ethanol; l to R: - w/ copper, w/ water, std w/ brass, std.
Water shows the turbidity of the shaken sample. It settles out but slowly.
All much darker than any of non ethanol

In Sept Hydrocarbon Processing article on testing gasoline for corrosion. I can't post it, it's copyright..
They were testing butanol as a replacement. (Refineries struggle with C4 cuts because of VP stds. Normal amt as butane is about 2% as an ignition promoter)
Data showed rate much higher (2x) with water above solubility.
They report bio-degradation in oxygenated gas.
ASTM test method D130 for corrosion, similar to what I'm doing but iron.
Interestingly, MBTE had increased corrosion rate.

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Contact these people in Dayton and ask? I don't know of any, I used to live around there. DID U GOOGLE?
http://www.americaspackardmuseum.com/